Mexico City

I recently traveled to Mexico City.

Mexico City is the largest city in North America — followed by New York City and Los Angeles — with around nine million people in the city and 25 million in the greater metro area. Depending on the list, it is the fifth or sixth largest city in the world by population.

As of 2018, there were 35 World Heritage Sites in Mexico. Mexico ranks first in the Americas and seventh worldwide by number of sites.

I had the advantage of staying with my friend and her family while in Mexico City. Before I left Seattle, I had curated a list of things I wanted to do and crosschecked my list against her recommendations as someone who grew up in the city.

Things to Do

Visit Different Neighborhoods

Coyocan

Coyocan is a vibrant borough in Mexico City. In the main plaza, you can find a market with vendors selling ice cream, fruit drinks, corn-on-the-cob, quesadillas, tortas, and more. The smells are a sensory delight. There are also street performers entertaining the crowds.

The Frida Kahlo Museum is in the neighborhood. Frida was born and grew up in the house that now serves as the museum. She also lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, for several years. It is also where she passed away.

San Juan Bautista Church and Monastery was built between 1520 and 1552 and is one of three oldest parish churches in the city. The complex has been reconstructed and restored various times so not much of the original church remains.

The area has a great vibe and is worth visiting. Besides the above-mentioned there are restaurants, cafes, museums, bookstores, and other attractions.

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La Condesa

La Condesa was my favorite neighborhood and is split into three sections Colonia Condesa, Colonia Hipódromo, and Colonia Hipódromo Condesa. There are many cafes, bookstores, restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. I walked around Amsterdam Avenue and enjoyed watching people walking their dogs, jogging, or enjoying outdoor dining. Amsterdam Avenue is a street that is shaped like an elliptic so you can literally walk around it. For those familiar with Seattle neighborhoods, I would say it is a cross between Capitol Hill and Freemont.

Mexico Park is also a place you can walk around or have a picnic.

There is also a vibrant market called Mercado de Medellín, which has everything you could think of buying from fruits, vegetables, and warm foods to fish and other meats to home décor. It’s quite large, and it was filled with locals buying from their neighborhood market.

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Polanco

Polanco is a neighborhood in the Miguel Hidalgo borough of Mexico City. Polanco is home to the most expensive street in Mexico and is known as a (luxury) shopping district. You can find restaurants, hotels, as well as diplomatic mansions and embassies. The area is one of the most expensive real estate markets in all Latin America.

Chapultepec Park lays within Polanco’s borders. Other parks include Lincoln Park,

 America Park, Machado Park, and the Plaza Uruguay.

The National Museum of Anthropology, which is in Chapultepec Park, is also part of the neighborhood. I can’t say enough about this museum. I was there five hours and would have stayed longer if it had not closed. If you like history, visit and plan to be there most of the day. It takes you through the history of Mexico and the people who lived there throughout the ages. Crushed for time? My friend’s aunt, who is an anthropologist, recommends Olmecas Room, Teotihuacan Room, Mexico Room, and Mayan Room. I explored the latter three rooms twice.

Other museums located in Polanco include the Museo Tamayo (in Chapultepec) and the Sala de Arte Público Siqueiros.

In the area you can find the Maguen David Synagogue, San Augustine Church, and San Agustine Park.

The area also has street names like Socrates, Edgar Allen Poe, and Galileo.

You can get to the area by the Metro using the Polanco and Auditorio stations.

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San Angel

If you are in town on a Saturday, visit the Saturday Bazaar. There are tons of handcrafts, including jewelry, textiles, woodwork, and ceramics. There are also areas where artists sell their paintings. The bazaar is a mixture of tourists and locals buying goods. There are many shops and boutiques as well as street vendors (food and goods).

The neighborhood has cobblestone streets and colonial homes. There are also galleries, museums, cafes, and restaurants. One of the museums includes works by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

Behind the market you will see San Jacinto Church and Monastery. 

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Historical Center

There is a lot packed in the Zócalo or main square and the historic center. I went there over several days to do activities.

When I first saw the Cathedral of Mexico City, my jaw dropped. It rivaled those in Europe. The cathedral is in Zocalo (the main square). You will notice a European feel to the area as Italian designers were brought in for some of the buildings. In the area you can find the Palace of Fine Arts (be sure to stroll the adjacent park, Alameda Park), Templo Mayor (you can see quite a bit from outside), National Palace, House of Tiles, and the Postal Palace.

Be sure to walk along Tacuba Street, which is the oldest street in Mexico City.

The National Palace is worth the visit. Please note you must sign in using some sort of photo identification (and leave the identification for the duration of the tour). There are scheduled tours for different languages, so check before you go for the current times. The tour is free, and you are shown the murals of Diego Rivera and given in-depth analysis of each mural. At the end of the tour, you are given a complimentary book about the palace. Please note this is as of August 2023.

There are other churches nearby such as St. Francis Church and La Santisma Church. Please note, I was told to visit the latter church early in the day due to unsavory activity in the area at night.

Walking along, I ran into the Barrio Chino, which is near the Palace of Fine Arts. The neighborhood consists of two blocks and has restaurants and businesses that import goods.

The San Juan Market is mentioned on a list I saw, but for me, it was underwhelming.

You will also encounter different plazas including Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza del Caballito.

You can get to the area by the Metro using the Zócalo station.

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Walking

You can walk along the Promenade of the Reform and run into many sculptures and statues including the Angel of Independence, the Monument to the Revolution (which is not on Reform but can be seen from the street), and Monument to Cuauhtémoc. You can see a great view of the street from Chapultepec Castle. Be mindful to follow the street. There is a plethora of roundabouts, so it’s easy to veer off course as I personally experienced.

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Bosque de Chapultepec

Bosque de Chapultepec is divided into four sections. The first section is the oldest and most visited and includes Chapultepec Castle, Chapultepec Zoo, the Museum of Anthropology, and the Tamayo Museum, among others.

Chapultepec Forest is one of the largest city parks in Mexico at around 1,700 acres. The area was a retreat location for Aztec rulers. Chapultepec Castle was built during colonization and became the official residence of Mexico’s heads of state until 1934.

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Teotihuacan Pyramids

I visited the Teotihuacan Pyramids via a tour operated by Turitour. The tour has two options, one of which is an express. The guide was very knowledgeable, and I learned a lot of history. The “pyramids” are not pyramids; they are temples, including temples to the sun and moon. The temple to the moon may be a temple to the Goddess of Fertility.

Note the area is hard to navigate, especially the steps. A family with two strollers decided to forgo the tour of the pyramids. Also be sure to bring water and a hat. There are vendors who sell hats for 200 pesos (price as of August 2023). Also dress comfortably and wear sunscreen. The area was hotter than the city.

I won’t get into the history of the location, but it is rich and worth researching.

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Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

I went to the basilica thinking I would be there for 30 minutes to an hour. I was there much longer. There is a lot to see, and it is a place of pilgrimage for many. I read that only St. Peter’s Basilica has more visitors among the Marian churches. Around nine million people visit around December 12 alone, which is the day on which Saint Mary of Guadalupe is celebrated. The site has two basilicas, the Templo Expiatorio a Cristo Rey (Old Basilica of Guadalupe) and the New Basilica of Guadalupe as well as Capilla del Cerrito, Temple and Convent of Las Capuchinas, Capilla del Pocito, and Capilla de Indios.

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The Mercado de Artesanías de La Ciudadela

The market has around 350 vendors selling handicraft items from around the country. The market has blankets, tablecloths, and other textiles as well as dishes and glassware, mirrors, clothing, handbags, silver, ceramics, jewelry, and much more.

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Eat like a local

The main meal is in the afternoon. It is a great time to catch up and eat over several courses. Eating with the family are treasured memories!

While I did not eat from any street vendors, the smells were delightful! They were everywhere, especially by Metro stations and places of interest.

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Getting around

There are many ways to navigate the city. While renting a car is always an option, I would not recommend it. The Metro is a very good way to travel. As of August 2023, Metro tickets are a very affordable 5 pesos a ticket. The system is like London and Paris, with connection points throughout the system. When using public transportation, secure your belongings. There are cars upfront that are women only. I gravitated toward those. When traveling during rush hour, plan for extra time because you may have to wait for several trains before you can fit. Also edge closer to the front when your stop is close. One stop, I had to be very aggressive to get off.

It is easy to get turned around. When I veer off course when I travel (and I do), I find a Metro station to take me back to a place I am familiar with.

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Before you go

Before traveling to any country, it is always a good idea to visit the U.S. Department of State for the latest information. Here is a direct link to Mexico. Please note that there are several areas of the country that the U.S. Department of State is currently recommending not to travel to.

As with any major city, use caution. Be mindful of pickpockets, be aware of your surroundings, and research which areas to avoid at night (or altogether).

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) has many direct flights, including direct flights to international locations, including Mexico City.

There are many ways to arrive at SEA. My favorite is the light rail. SEA is a very busy airport. A recent blog post overviewed the different travel programs. You can also expedite the security process by using Sea Spot Saver. After you clear TSA, visit the two Little Free Libraries in the A Concourse. Bring a book to leave and take a book to read.

Colonization

When I was there, there were protests from indigenous groups throughout the city. Whether the United States, Canada, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and the list goes on, one thing I have noticed is that indigenous groups struggle. It is shameful, and I lack the words to adequately express how I feel at the moment.

The USA

Whenever I travel, I look at my passport. I feel a certain way when I read, that “The government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.” Let it be so.

There and back again…an LTB journey

“It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to,” J.R.R. Tolkien, The Lord of the Rings.

This morning, I got up at 3:45 a.m. to leave for the airport at 4:45. My flight from Vilnius to Frankfurt left at 6:45 (Flights always sound good when you are booking them but then comes the execution). The flight leaving was delayed 30 minutes because of fog in Frankfurt. I kept thinking, “Just let me make my connection.” But the flights were in the same terminal and the line for Customs was short. Then my flight from Frankfurt to Seattle left was supposed to leave at 10:35. We were delayed because they had to remove the bags of people who did miss the cutoff. I am not sure who they are but that has to suck! I arrived back home at 1:10. Cleared Customs and made my way home!

Thanks so much for following my adventure. I’m not sure what’s next on the travel plans, but I will cook something up! I already have tons of ideas. I do enjoy writing, and I will have my blog posts and travel pictures when I am old and grey remembering the adventures I had in my decadent youth.

Travel is such a beautiful gift. I am global; we are global. I think if more people traveled with an open-heart outside of their comfort zone, we would realize how a like we all are. Regardless of differences of race, religion, nationality and whatever other labels we place on ourselves and other people, we basically want the same thing. We experience the same struggles and heartaches. We experience loss. We experience joy and happiness.

The woman next to me on the flight between Vilnius and Frankfurt lives in Toronto, but she is from Lithuania. She has been in Toronto for 20 years (she left when she was 23). She married a man from the Philippines, and she said back then, it would have been hard on them had they stayed. She traveled home because her father has cancer, and they are getting his will and other end-of-life documents in order. She shared that she lost her mom last year, and I was like I lost mine last year too. Then we exchanged a look because despite not knowing each other, we both understand how that feels. And as humans, we have a lot of shared experiences.

No matter where I have been in the world, children have fallen out and had tantrums. People are out with their friends and family socializing. People are working to provide for their families. Children are unfiltered like the child on the plane who announced quite loudly that he, “Needed to make a poopy.”

I really hate the nationalist/isolationist rhetoric that is being sown worldwide. We are in this together. We can prosper together, or we can struggle together. It’s like the “trade war.” No side wins. Both suffer losses and casualties, and it’s all so unnecessary. This is where I would normally go off on my tangent about why international trade is good!

Now my mission is to do laundry from the trip. Go grocery shopping. Catch up on Greenleaf and Young Sheldon. BTW for those who have watched Greenleaf and Downton Abbey, is it me or are Charity and Lady Edith basically the same character? I need to vote and a much of “to dos” that should go relatively short if I focus. I also need to figure out why my pictures are not posting to my shared site. The photos are uploaded and ready to rock and roll.

Now back to regular programing.

Edits later.

Vilnius – act three

I spent the better part of today in the New Town.

I started off by walking down the length of Gedimino Prospektas. I cut over as things caught my eye like St. Phillip and St. Jacob. If I read correctly, the church has the oldest icon of Mary in Lithuania.

The Museum of Genocide Victims was closed. I would have had to gone Saturday. Saw the Parliament House. The Lithuanian National Drama Theater is undergoing renovations, so I was unable to see the Three Muses.

A little south of Gedimino is Vingis Park, which I walked through a little. I also went to the Romanov Church, which was known as the Orthodox Church of St. Michael and St. Constantine. It was built to mark 300 years of the Romanov dynasty. This was within four years of the dynasty ending. I also saw the Flower Market, which I could have missed but the guidebook mentioned it and it was close to the church. They did have tons of lovely roses. I also saw Kenessa, which is a traditional Karaite prayer house that was built in 1911.

I then went to the Snipiskes district, which is where Soviet concrete building blocks have been replaced with skyscrapers. The business district is called “Sunrise Valley.” I also saw St. Raphael’s Church.

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Then I did some wandering around the Old Town again.

I did a lot of walking. 33,381 steps according to my phone.

Edits when I get home!

Vilnius – act two

Today, I started off in the Cathedral Square again. I wanted to make sure I got a picture of the statue of Gediminas. It is built on an old pagan site. I also wanted to get a picture of the tile that has the word stebuklas, which means miracle. It marks the spot where the human chain formed between Tallinn and Vilnius ended. More than two million people formed the chain to protest the Soviet occupation. You are supposed to do a clockwise 360-degree turn on the tile.

I forgot to mention that last night I saw the Palace of the Grand Dukes. I passed it again on my way into the Old Town. The site has been settled on since at least 4^th century AD.

Vilnius’ Old Town is Eastern Europe’s largest.

My first stop was St. Anne’s Church. This is the church I randomly went in to last night, but I left because they were having mass. Well it’s Sunday, so they were having mass again. I stayed for part of it. While I was there, the father came by with oil. He dipped a brush or something and went around waving it toward all of us as a blessing, I think? The church is late 15^th-century Gothic and has 33 different kinds of bricks. Legion has it that Napoleon wanted to relocate the church to Paris because he was charmed by it. The church still has its original altar.

The next stop was Bernadine Church and Monastery. I was able to take communion there based on the timing of my arrival. The Bernadine monks have been in Vilnius since the 15^th century when they established a wooden house of worship. Now its brick.

As I was walking, I heard someone say, “Hi.” I looked up, and it was the woman from Malaysia again! Like me, she arrived in Vilnius yesterday. She is going to Krakow, Poland, tomorrow. Her name is Chin Lin. It totally made my day.

One thing I noticed in all three countries is the number of people asking for alms outside of the church. A few times, I have seen them chased away by people from the church.

Then to the Church of Saint Michael the Archangel. It was built in the 17^th century. Saw the Presidential Palace and parts of Vilnius University, which was founded in 1579.

Went to St. John’s Church, which is the first parish church in the city. Christianity was introduced to the city in 1387 and the church opened in 1426. Saw the nearby House of Signatories. Lithuania’s Declaration of Independence was signed there in 1918.

Then to what may now be my favorite church in the world. I love the Church of Our Lady in Bruges a lot too. This church is called Shrine of Divine Mercy. It doesn’t have much decoration, but what is there is so perfect. I found it to be peaceful. Above the altar it says, “Jesu, in te confido.” Which translates, “Jesus, I trust you.” Then there is artwork that says it in different languages. I arrived just as it was the “May God be with you,” part, which is my favorite part of the service.

Then to the Church of our Lady of the Assumption. Then to the Church of St. Nicholas, which is the city’s oldest church. It was built by German Christians in 1320. From 1901 to 1939, it was the only church in Lithuania that held mass.

Went in the Russian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas. It was smoky. It was built in the 16^th century then restored 300 years later. Went to Evangelical Lutheran Church. It dates back to 1555. Went to where the Great Synagogue of Vilnius was before it was destroyed. It was the largest synagogue in Eastern Europe.

Then to the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary the Comforter and St. Casimir’s Church, which was closed. Passed by the Lithuanian National Philharmonic on my way to see Church of Holy Trinity, Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, Church of Saint Teresa of Avila, Gates of Dawn and the Chapel of the Gates of Dawn. The Gates of Dawn is the southern border of the Old Town.

After that I saw two more churches, the Church of the Lord’s Ascension to Heaven and the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Both which are closed.

At some point, I also saw the Town Hall and the square. I also saw St. Catherine’s Church, which is now a musical venue. Went to the Church of Holy Spirit, which has green interior.

At some point, I realized I was walking up hill, and stopped by the Subacius Observation Area before walking down. I endued up in Uzupio, so I wandered around there again. I did some random walking through the Old Town on my way home.

 

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Basically, I spent a lot of times visiting tons of churches today, many of which were having service. There are a lot of churches in the Old Town. Even I was getting “churched out” toward the end!

I spent some time in the Bernardine Gardens yesterday. Quite lovely! I also saw the Cathedral of Theotkos, but I didn’t know what it was called until today. I saw it when I was leaving the Uzupio district.

Edits when I get home!

Vilnius – act one

“One stage of your journey is over, another begins,” Gandalf the Grey.

Today, I departed Riga, Latvia, and took a bus to Vilnius, Lithuania.

I have to say that I loved the hotel I stayed at in Riga. It’s called Hotel Justus. Check out their webpage. The décor in my room and around the hotel are pieces I would love to have in my home.  It’s in a great location. It is minutes from the Riga Cathedral on the left and House of Blackheads on the right. Great filling breakfast. I was able to walk to the sites I wanted to get to. And the staff, one woman in particular, were very friendly and helpful. I meant to get her name, but when I got back my last night, she was gone.

I took a 9:30 bus and arrived at the Vilnius bus depot at 1:30ish.

Got to my hotel, checked in, dumped my stuff and headed out. Since I’ve been back at the hotel, I have organized my stuff.

My first stop was the Cathedral Square. It was the place of markets and fairs in the 19^th century. I visited the Vilnius Cathedral. The spot of the church was, once upon a time, a site that was used to worship the thunder god. I saw the Cathedral Belfry and debated whether to walk up the tower. I decided not to.

Part of the reason is because I was going to go up Gediminas Hill, and I thought that would give a better view. I debated whether to take the funicular or walk. I decided to walk because it wasn’t that far up. This hill is where Vilnius was founded. The castle is up there. There have been buildings there since Neolithic times. The current castle dates back to the 15^th century. Its walls were damaged but restored. It offered lovely views of the city and Old Town.

I was going to head to Old Town, but I saw a sign pointing to St. Peter and St. Paul Church. Let me say, “Amazing.” It has a baroque interior with 2,000 stuccoes created by Italian sculptors between 1675 and 1704. I am so amazed at all the detail. It’s a bit of walk, but definitely worth it. Since I was there, I continued on to Antakainis Cemetery. It’s supposed to be one of Europe’s most beautiful graveyards (not sure how that’s measured). There is a place where those killed by Soviet special forces January 19, 1991, are buried. There is a pieta of Madonna cradling Jesus there. I did enjoy my walk through it.

On a side note, when I lived in Northgate, I lived across from a cemetery. I used to walk in it all the time.

I then walked up to Three Crosses. They were first erected in the 17^th century in memory of monks who were martyred by pagans three centuries earlier. The originals were bulldozed by the Soviets. Sigh.

I had seen a sign pointing to Uzupis, so I kept going. What a fun neighborhood. It’s called the “Republic of Uzupis.” Complete with own flags and president. There is a 41-point constitution engraved in many different languages outlining its citizens’ rights. Like hot water, to be unique, to be free, to be happy, etc. There is also the Uzupis Angel. It’s kind of old school Capitol Hill before gentrification meets Fremont.

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At that point, it was starting to get dark, and I wanted to make sure I could find my way back to the hotel. I will hit up Old Town in its fullest tomorrow.

Oh. Remember that Soviet style building I mentioned that reminded me of one I saw in Poland? Will apparently there is one more of them (I forget where). In Riga, the locals call it “Stalin’s wedding cake.”

I learned from Tom, that you can go to St. Petersburg from Helsinki for up to 72 hours without a visa. I need to do some research into that because that could be a future trip.

Tomorrow, Europe falls back. An extra hour of sleep. Hallelujah!

Edits when I get home.

Riga take two

My focus today was central Riga.

My first stop was the exquisite Nativity of Christ Cathedral. The church is a Byzantine-styled orthodox cathedral. It’s quite lovely. My senses were on overload taking in all the beautiful imagery and the magnificent dome. This time I asked about a scarf, but I was fine because I was wearing my hat. During the Soviet occupation, it was turned into a planetarium. Jeez.

My next move was walking about 20 minutes to get to Miera Iela. It’s a district that is popular with young, hipster crowds. The woman at the front desk was saying the country is very conservative, but the district is more alternative (my word choice). It’s an industrial district that is turning over though there is a chocolate maker up there. There are cafes, craft shops and bookstores. It had a nice vibe to it. I kept walking and saw two more orthodox churches and a cemetery.

Next stop was St. Gertrude Church, which has beautiful stain-glass windows. Its red-brick and Neo-Gothic. I learned today that Gertrude is the patron saint for travelers or those on the road. Once upon a time, the location was the edge of the city.

I tried to go to Jews in Latvia, but it was closed because it’s Friday. The place recounts the history of Jewish life until 1945. There are artifacts and photos.

Then off to the Quiet Center. Riga has 750 Art Nouveau buildings. In truth, the city is a museum because there are so many lovely buildings. My eyes were drawn to the soft pastels. There were some that were pointed out along Alberta Iela, so I went to check them out first. So much detail. The craftsmen who did the carvings were very skilled. I spent some time walking around the Art Nouveau District, focusing on streets off of Elizabetes Iela.

I saw the Corner House. This is a place where the Soviet secret police arrested, tortured and killed people. I wasn’t able to go inside, but it has an exhibit dedicated to the victims of the 1940-41 political repression.

I walked down the Esplanade, which is park. It was a lovely fall day, and I ended at the flower market (Vermanes Garden).

After a quick stop at the hotel, I crossed over the bridge to go to the Latvia National Library. It’s quite massive and there was an event going on, so it had a party vibe happening. The locals call the building the sandwich and don’t like it. The architect wanted to mimic the spires in the old town.

On the way home, I ran into a fellow American. His name is Tom, and he is from Ohio. He’s traveling for two months doing English as a second language as part of the trip. He’s done quite a bit of traveling, and I want to be him when I grow up. Always nice to see people who love to travel and keep doing so.

My phone says I walked 30,793 steps. That doesn’t seem right (seems high), but I’ll go with it.

Edits when I get home.

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Riga take one

I was able to get a lot accomplished today.

The first place I went was the Riga Cathedral. The church, which once Catholic but is now Lutheran, was founded in 1211 as the seat of the Riga diocese. It is the largest medieval church in the Baltic. The oldest portion of the church has Romanesque features; the tower is 18^th century baroque and the rest, dating back to the 15^th century, is Gothic. During Soviet times, services were not allowed.

I went into Our Ladies of Sorrow Church and saw St. Savior’s Church. I would also go into St. Mary Magdalene’s Church later.

The next stop was Three Brothers, which are three old stone homes. One is 600 years old and the oldest dwelling in town. The other two are 17^th century. Then to St. James Cathedral, which was built in 1225. The church has switched between Catholic and Protestant. It is currently a Catholic Church. Then to see the Riga Castle, which is the official residence of the president.

From here, I took the Torna Iela to see the Swedish Gate, which were medieval walls built in 1698 by the Swedes. It is the largest surviving section of the town wall. Saw the Latvian War Museum, Jacob’s Barracks, which is the longest building in Old Riga, and the Power Tower, which dates back to the 14^th century. It’s the only of the 18 original towers that survived.

I then did a quick beeline to Central Riga and walked along the city canal. There is a nice park around it. I went up Bastion Hill and went to the Freedom Monument. The Freedom Monument was off limits during Soviet occupation. Placing flowers on it was a crime with the punishment of being sent to Siberia. It is around this time I ran into the Malaysian woman from my bus tour here, and I laughed because I bemoaned yesterday how I would never see any of them again. I saw the National Opera.

I went back into the Old Town and saw St. Peter’s Church. It is thought to be 800 years old, thus one of the oldest medieval buildings in the Baltic. Then saw St. John’s Church, which is a mixture of 13^th to 19^th century Gothic and baroque styles.

This is when I did a beeline and saw somethings I meant to see tomorrow. I saw the Central Market, and so I went there. It is wonderful! The market is housed in a series of five WWI Zeppelin hangers and has outdoor markets as well. You name it, it’s there. I read that it has space for 1,000 sellers. It’s one of the largest markets in Europe.

I explored the Maskava Forstate, which is Riga’s “Moscow Suburb.” It was once the site of the Jewish ghetto when the Nazi’s occupied Latvia. There are parts that are still in recovery.

I saw a building I walked to because it reminded me of a very Russian like building I saw in Poland. There is an orthodox church near it that I went to. It was magnificent. It was adorned to the highest degree. When I first walked in, the father gave me a second look and walked out. I looked around and then went to buy a candle to pray for my sister/friend’s aunt who lost her husband. While I was in line, the father came up to me with a big smile. Gave me a piece of candy and shook my hand. It made me smile. It was only after I was leaving the church that I saw a sign asking women to borrow a scarf from the church when they entered. I felt bad because I feel it’s so important to respect sacred spaces in the manner of their beliefs. I know to cover my hair in a mosque and to take off my shoes (and leave them outside) before going into a Hindu Temple.

I then went to the Riga Ghetto & Latvia Holocaust Museum. There are some moving pieces. I think it’s always so powerful when faces and stories are connected. The people who were murdered in the Holocaust are not nameless. They have stories and histories that were wiped out too soon because of hate and supremacy. I also went to a Holocaust Memorial near there. It’s the site where a large synagogue was burned to the ground during WWII. The congregation was trapped inside the church when it happened. None survived. What do you do with such senseless hate?

Then I saw the Jezus Baznica (Jesus Evangelical Lutheran). It took me a minute to find it even though it was right in my face. It said it was a church made up entirely of wood, so I assumed it would be brown. It was grey and soft blue.

Next I went to Spikeri. It is an area of brick warehouses, which used to be filled with slabs of hanger meat. The warehouses are now being converted into stores and companies. It made me think of gentrification, which can be good if you take areas that were not developed and repurpose buildings that are falling down. The other side is when people who historically lived in the neighborhood are forced out because they can no longer afford to live there. It’s happening all over the world, including my neighborhood at home, and is unfortunate.

Then back to the Old Town. I went to the Cat House. I wanted to see it because of the backstory. “What had happened was” according to legend, a man was rejected from the Great Guild. For revenge, he turned the cats’ butts toward the hall. Of course, the guild was outraged. There was a court battle and the merchant was let in the club, but he had to turn the cats in the other direction. High drama!

I saw the Mentzendorff’s House, which was built in 1695 as the home of a German glazier.

I went to the Riga Synagogue. It was built in 1905. It only survived because setting it on fire would have put other buildings at risk. After the Soviet occupation ended, it was reopened for service. Then in 1995 and 1998, there were bomb attacks by neo-Nazis. In 2009, it was restored with funds from the EU.

Finally, to Ratslaukums where I saw the Blackheads House, which was originally called the New House. The house was for unmarried German merchants. It was built in 1344 but decimated in 1941 and flattened seven years later. It was rebuilt in 2001 based on the original blueprints. Saw the Town Hall. The original was destroyed during WWII. It was rebuilt in 2003. Lastly saw the Latvian Riflemen Monument. It’s controversial because it honors Latvia’s Riflemen, who were the core of the Red Army in 1918. Some served as Lenin’s personal guards.

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Today has been the warmest day. No hat and scarf needed for me. It’s supposed to be 60 tomorrow. Late next week, snow is in the forecast.

Today’s step count equals 24,738 for 9.2 miles.

I will edit when I get home.

Onward to York

“One stage of your journey is over, another begins,” Gandalf.

 

This morning, I bid farewell to Bath (I said goodbye to Becky last night) and made my way by rail to York via a quick transfer in Bristol. During the four hours from Bristol to York, I was able to do my yearly State of My Life aka State of the Union journal recap. I can be lax with journaling, but when I take my yearly trip, I like to honestly look at the different areas of my life. It’s not always pretty, but it is at least honest. One of my goals for when I get back is to get back into journaling. Just writing things down and out works wonders.

 

I did a little drifting off to sleep. I was so determined to go to bed early last night, but alas, it wasn’t until 1:00. Tonight, I plan to go to bed early and set my alarm to make breakfast hours. The choices look great. Full English. Pancakes/bacon. Lighter choices. I also want to make the first York city walk tour to help me further orientate.

 

I enjoyed watching the countryside roll by. One of the guides from Bath said that a huge portion of the land is purposely not developed or built on.

 

I got to the train station and headed to where I am staying. I went out a different exit than my directions, so I got a little turned around. I was set straight by a local taking a cigarette break from her job. I got to my room and settled in. I am staying at a pub. I wanted to catch some daylight to get orientated, so I could hit the ground running tomorrow. Now that I know where I am, the walking directions from Mapquest could have been much simpler.

 

I will say I am in a good area. A 15-minute walk to the city center. I have a straight shot into it, which is good. Since I know where York Minister is now, I can use that as a beacon if I ever get turned around. I went to a prayer service there tonight. It was nice. I sat next to a local who chatted with me. And the people who sat in front of me are from Bend, Oregon. I was like I just met a lady from Bend when I was in Bath.

 

Anyway, today was a travel day and getting orientated. Nothing much to report. Tomorrow, I should be up and at them with lots to see. I may try to do a day trip to the Lake District at some point. Otherwise there are some museums I want to check out.

 

I have been watching the show the Vikings, and even though some of the timing of the characters is off, the people did exist.

 

During the times of the Romans, York was known as Eboracum and was the northern most city of the empire. During my trip to Wales some years back, I went to the western most city in the empire. One point of interest to me is what is left of Hadrian’s Wall, but I think I would have a better connection there next time I am in Edinburgh. The Romans feared the Scots, so the wall was built. At some point in time, Constantine was proclaimed emperor. York then became Eoforwic and the capital of Northumbria, which was an Anglo-Saxon kingdom. The Vikings took the city and named it Jorvik. There is a Viking museum I want to go to here. Then enter the Normans and the rest is history as they say. But I like the stories behind the development of what is now England. The priest tonight actually mentioned King Alfred, and it made me smile because I believe he will have a big role in Vikings when it starts  Nov. 28.

 

York certainly has a quicker pace than Bath, but I think I will enjoy it. It has a very good vibe. I normally get dinner from a grocery store (I had a yummy Cornish pastry from one last night), but tonight I ate at one of Rick Steves’ recommended cheap eats. It was on the way home.

 

Edits when I get home.

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The Cotswolds

Today I joined a day tour to the Cotswolds run by a company called Mad Max Tours. The company was recommended by Rick Steves as well as Trip Advisor. There were people from Hong Kong, Thailand, Australia, and the U.S. I think there were 13 of us. The people from the U.S. were from South Carolina, Michigan, Oregon (Bend) and two from Seattle (Woodinville). It made me chuckle. I thought the tour was well run, and I enjoyed our tour guide/driver, Colin. He had a great sense of humor, knew his history, and enjoyed his job.

 

When I was originally planning this trip, I thought it would be nice to spend a few nights in either the Cotswolds and/or Lake District. However, the bus/train connections there are poor (it would have taken way too much effort for my current mental state), and so I would really need a car. I don’t like driving in the U.S. let alone driving in a foreign country on the wrong side of the car and road (for me), and I don’t drive a stick.

 

The countryside was breathtaking, and it was nice to past the various hamlets and villages. It’s like time stopped but progress continued. I am always at awe with the narrow roads and modern cars, trucks, and buses.

 

In the 12^th century, the area prospered because of wool and was quite well off. Enter cotton and the industrial revolution, and the wool industry collapsed. We went to several towns including Castle Combe, Bibury, Bourton on the Water, Stow-on-the-Wold, and Tetbury.

 

In Castle Combe, I saw the Manor House Hotel, which was beautiful and had gorgeous landscape. It is a popular place for weddings. The city was the film location for the musical Doctor Doolittle. It was also the film location for the movie Stardust.

 

Bibury was pretty. There is a trout farm, which I did not go into, but I did see some in the stream (at least I assumed the fish were trout). There were a lot of trout dishes on the menu at the restaurant by the trout farm. There are protected wetlands and some cottages of former weavers.

 

Bourton on the Water is known as the “Venice of the Cotswolds.” I have been to Venice several times, and it is a huge stretch. It was pretty though. I love series of bridges. Out of all the towns on the tour, it was the busiest.

 

Stow-on-the-Wold is the highest point in the Cotswolds. I was especially excited to come here because of the church there. According to legend, Tolkien hiked in the Cotswolds and had a passion for sketching trees. It is believed that the doors on the back side of the church, which are flanked by two old yew trees, inspired the Doors of Durin leading into Moria in the Lord of the Rings. While in Stow, I had a picnic lunch and sat by the “Stocks on the Market Square.” This is a place where people were publicly punished and ridiculed for their crimes. People came by and took pictures (I had one taken) here. Anyway, an older couple (probably in their 80’s) came by to look at them. The wife remarked, “Maybe we should bring this back.” She was serious when she said it, and the husband seriously agreed. I couldn’t help it. I busted out laughing. I am not sure if it would deter crime. And, with social media, people are publicly shamed and ridiculed all of the time. I also wanted to see Stow Lodge because it was formerly the rectory. It was quite grander than I thought a rector’s residence would be. The rest of the time was spent wandering around.

 

Prince Charles has an estate near Tetbury. I attempted to go to the church there, but it was closed. I just wandered around the streets.

 

While walking with one of my tour mates, I discovered she is a fellow blogger, so we were able to exchange business cards. Jeanie, if you are reading this, it was nice to meet you. I will take the time to view your blog.

 

One thing I forgot to mention is that I am having gorgeous fall weather thus far. I felt hot today with my many layers. When I checked the forecast before I left, there was no rain in the forecast though it should drop into the high 50’s next week.

 

As always, I will edit when I get back.

 

 

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Greetings from England

Greetings from England. I am currently in Bath.

 

I flew out Sunday and arrived Monday. I headed to Bath from London Heathrow. In retrospect, it would have been better to fly into Bristol because it is closer to Bath. I am not sure what the price differential in the price of the ticket would have been. I did call, but I couldn’t get past the change fee to get that far.

 

I am staying at an AirBnB. The woman I am staying with is very friendly and helpful. The location is great. I walk down to the city center, but I take the bus back up the hill. I arrived in Bath around 8:45 p.m., and it was dark. I was able to find the bus to get me here, and I knew the stop with the help of fellow passengers. Then there was an aha moment where I knew where to go. It got me thinking about the pros/cons of traveling on your own vs. joining a tour.

 

Although I had been to the Central Bus Station at the airport, it did take me a minute to remember where it was.

 

The pros of the tour: most tour companies will pick you up from the airport, so if you are in a new place, you don’t have to figure it out. There is also of course not having to find where you stay. Most will also have advance tickets to tourist locations so there is no waiting in line.

 

Then there are cons. I hate itineraries that are one night here, two nights there, one night there, etc. That s exhausting, especially when you are getting up early in the morning to head out early. You never have time to settle in. Then there is the single supplement. Some tour companies will match you with a fellow single. Others will automatically charge you a supplement. There were actually two tours that interested me, but the single supplement put them way outside my comfort zone. Especially when I planned this trip to one of the most expensive countries because of the exchange rate for way less. But I digress.

 

During the Roman times, Bath was called Aquae Sulis. So the first place I went was the Roman Baths. It is always interesting to me how many layers of previous inhabitants are under our feet. A few things stuck out to me on about the Romans Bath. One is the idea of memory. I have mentioned before that modern man has many ways for the world to know we exist be it social media, pictures, etc. Back in the day, people created monuments to say who they were, and what they did to leave their mark. The other part were the “curse” tablets offered to the gods. Some where quite funny. One woman who had gloves stolen wished that the person who stole them would lose their mind. Another wished the person who stole something would be “utterly accursed” and listed a name of possible suspects.

 

I also went into the Pump Room. I literally finished a book last week that was set in Bath. There is a scene where the polished villain went there, so I wanted to check it out. It is exactly how I pictured it.

 

I also went to the Bath Abbey. The church is well lit because 80 percent of the building is windows. I was there during the hourly prayer by Father Robin, who I had a chance to talk to and pray with later, that was very timely. He prayed for world leaders that they would have integrity in motive, think of the well being of all, and be salt and light. Amen.

 

I am not sure if any of you follow Humans of New York on Facebook and/or Instagram. If you don’t, I would recommend it. Right not Brandon is in Rwanda and is sharing stories from people who survived the genocide. I think back to slavery, the holocaust, Rwanda (and too many more to name) and think about what is happening today in South Africa and Myanmar and wonder why we make people subhuman. In American slavery, slaves were 3/5 of a person. So not human. In Rwanda, the Tutsis were called cockroaches.

 

As I mentioned, I spoke with Father Robin. He offered to talk and pray for anyone who wanted it. As most of you know, my mom passed away in August. It has had a weird impact on my current state of mind.  So I was able to speak out what I have been feeling with someone with no vested interest or history to the situation. Purpose. Mission. Passion. Calling.

I struggled with coming on this trip, so everything from buying my ticket to finding places to stay were very last minute. In the end, I thought unplugging from the Matrix would be good but did worry I would end up feeling more alone and confused. I am hopeful that I am exactly where I am supposed to be at this exact moment in time even if I feel like I am so far off course.

I did a free two-hour walking tour of Bath. It is worth the time. If you are visiting Bath, look up The Mayor’s Corps of Honorary Guides. The guides are all volunteers. Groups meet outside the Pump Room. There were a lot of people, and we broke into three groups. My guide, Andy, was very knowledgeable and clearly had a love of the city and history. One of the women who joined the tour was a fellow American. She had been here six months ago on a photo trip. She had done a program called “A Year with My Camera.” I am going to look it up when I get home. The next session starts in January. As part of the tour, we went to but not in The Circus and Royal Crescent. We also went to the Fashion Museum and into the Assembly, Tea, and Card rooms. Having read too many period pieces, I can totally picture scenes in each room.

 

I also went to Pulteney Bridge, which is basically a bunch of shops built over a bridge.

 

If I had one piece of advice, I would say buy your train/bus tickets as soon as you firm up plans. The prices I originally saw for certain times increased as time went by. I could have saved around $80 had I committed to times earlier. But of course wait until you know for sure!

 

As always, I will edit when I get back!

 

 

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