I recently traveled to Mexico City.
Mexico City is the largest city in North America — followed by New York City and Los Angeles — with around nine million people in the city and 25 million in the greater metro area. Depending on the list, it is the fifth or sixth largest city in the world by population.
As of 2018, there were 35 World Heritage Sites in Mexico. Mexico ranks first in the Americas and seventh worldwide by number of sites.
I had the advantage of staying with my friend and her family while in Mexico City. Before I left Seattle, I had curated a list of things I wanted to do and crosschecked my list against her recommendations as someone who grew up in the city.
Things to Do
Visit Different Neighborhoods
Coyocan
Coyocan is a vibrant borough in Mexico City. In the main plaza, you can find a market with vendors selling ice cream, fruit drinks, corn-on-the-cob, quesadillas, tortas, and more. The smells are a sensory delight. There are also street performers entertaining the crowds.
The Frida Kahlo Museum is in the neighborhood. Frida was born and grew up in the house that now serves as the museum. She also lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, for several years. It is also where she passed away.
San Juan Bautista Church and Monastery was built between 1520 and 1552 and is one of three oldest parish churches in the city. The complex has been reconstructed and restored various times so not much of the original church remains.
The area has a great vibe and is worth visiting. Besides the above-mentioned there are restaurants, cafes, museums, bookstores, and other attractions.
La Condesa
La Condesa was my favorite neighborhood and is split into three sections Colonia Condesa, Colonia Hipódromo, and Colonia Hipódromo Condesa. There are many cafes, bookstores, restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. I walked around Amsterdam Avenue and enjoyed watching people walking their dogs, jogging, or enjoying outdoor dining. Amsterdam Avenue is a street that is shaped like an elliptic so you can literally walk around it. For those familiar with Seattle neighborhoods, I would say it is a cross between Capitol Hill and Freemont.
Mexico Park is also a place you can walk around or have a picnic.
There is also a vibrant market called Mercado de Medellín, which has everything you could think of buying from fruits, vegetables, and warm foods to fish and other meats to home décor. It’s quite large, and it was filled with locals buying from their neighborhood market.
Polanco
Polanco is a neighborhood in the Miguel Hidalgo borough of Mexico City. Polanco is home to the most expensive street in Mexico and is known as a (luxury) shopping district. You can find restaurants, hotels, as well as diplomatic mansions and embassies. The area is one of the most expensive real estate markets in all Latin America.
Chapultepec Park lays within Polanco’s borders. Other parks include Lincoln Park,
America Park, Machado Park, and the Plaza Uruguay.
The National Museum of Anthropology, which is in Chapultepec Park, is also part of the neighborhood. I can’t say enough about this museum. I was there five hours and would have stayed longer if it had not closed. If you like history, visit and plan to be there most of the day. It takes you through the history of Mexico and the people who lived there throughout the ages. Crushed for time? My friend’s aunt, who is an anthropologist, recommends Olmecas Room, Teotihuacan Room, Mexico Room, and Mayan Room. I explored the latter three rooms twice.
Other museums located in Polanco include the Museo Tamayo (in Chapultepec) and the Sala de Arte Público Siqueiros.
In the area you can find the Maguen David Synagogue, San Augustine Church, and San Agustine Park.
The area also has street names like Socrates, Edgar Allen Poe, and Galileo.
You can get to the area by the Metro using the Polanco and Auditorio stations.
San Angel
If you are in town on a Saturday, visit the Saturday Bazaar. There are tons of handcrafts, including jewelry, textiles, woodwork, and ceramics. There are also areas where artists sell their paintings. The bazaar is a mixture of tourists and locals buying goods. There are many shops and boutiques as well as street vendors (food and goods).
The neighborhood has cobblestone streets and colonial homes. There are also galleries, museums, cafes, and restaurants. One of the museums includes works by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.
Behind the market you will see San Jacinto Church and Monastery.
Historical Center
There is a lot packed in the Zócalo or main square and the historic center. I went there over several days to do activities.
When I first saw the Cathedral of Mexico City, my jaw dropped. It rivaled those in Europe. The cathedral is in Zocalo (the main square). You will notice a European feel to the area as Italian designers were brought in for some of the buildings. In the area you can find the Palace of Fine Arts (be sure to stroll the adjacent park, Alameda Park), Templo Mayor (you can see quite a bit from outside), National Palace, House of Tiles, and the Postal Palace.
Be sure to walk along Tacuba Street, which is the oldest street in Mexico City.
The National Palace is worth the visit. Please note you must sign in using some sort of photo identification (and leave the identification for the duration of the tour). There are scheduled tours for different languages, so check before you go for the current times. The tour is free, and you are shown the murals of Diego Rivera and given in-depth analysis of each mural. At the end of the tour, you are given a complimentary book about the palace. Please note this is as of August 2023.
There are other churches nearby such as St. Francis Church and La Santisma Church. Please note, I was told to visit the latter church early in the day due to unsavory activity in the area at night.
Walking along, I ran into the Barrio Chino, which is near the Palace of Fine Arts. The neighborhood consists of two blocks and has restaurants and businesses that import goods.
The San Juan Market is mentioned on a list I saw, but for me, it was underwhelming.
You will also encounter different plazas including Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza del Caballito.
You can get to the area by the Metro using the Zócalo station.
Walking
You can walk along the Promenade of the Reform and run into many sculptures and statues including the Angel of Independence, the Monument to the Revolution (which is not on Reform but can be seen from the street), and Monument to Cuauhtémoc. You can see a great view of the street from Chapultepec Castle. Be mindful to follow the street. There is a plethora of roundabouts, so it’s easy to veer off course as I personally experienced.
Bosque de Chapultepec
Bosque de Chapultepec is divided into four sections. The first section is the oldest and most visited and includes Chapultepec Castle, Chapultepec Zoo, the Museum of Anthropology, and the Tamayo Museum, among others.
Chapultepec Forest is one of the largest city parks in Mexico at around 1,700 acres. The area was a retreat location for Aztec rulers. Chapultepec Castle was built during colonization and became the official residence of Mexico’s heads of state until 1934.
Teotihuacan Pyramids
I visited the Teotihuacan Pyramids via a tour operated by Turitour. The tour has two options, one of which is an express. The guide was very knowledgeable, and I learned a lot of history. The “pyramids” are not pyramids; they are temples, including temples to the sun and moon. The temple to the moon may be a temple to the Goddess of Fertility.
Note the area is hard to navigate, especially the steps. A family with two strollers decided to forgo the tour of the pyramids. Also be sure to bring water and a hat. There are vendors who sell hats for 200 pesos (price as of August 2023). Also dress comfortably and wear sunscreen. The area was hotter than the city.
I won’t get into the history of the location, but it is rich and worth researching.
Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe
I went to the basilica thinking I would be there for 30 minutes to an hour. I was there much longer. There is a lot to see, and it is a place of pilgrimage for many. I read that only St. Peter’s Basilica has more visitors among the Marian churches. Around nine million people visit around December 12 alone, which is the day on which Saint Mary of Guadalupe is celebrated. The site has two basilicas, the Templo Expiatorio a Cristo Rey (Old Basilica of Guadalupe) and the New Basilica of Guadalupe as well as Capilla del Cerrito, Temple and Convent of Las Capuchinas, Capilla del Pocito, and Capilla de Indios.
The Mercado de Artesanías de La Ciudadela
The market has around 350 vendors selling handicraft items from around the country. The market has blankets, tablecloths, and other textiles as well as dishes and glassware, mirrors, clothing, handbags, silver, ceramics, jewelry, and much more.
Eat like a local
The main meal is in the afternoon. It is a great time to catch up and eat over several courses. Eating with the family are treasured memories!
While I did not eat from any street vendors, the smells were delightful! They were everywhere, especially by Metro stations and places of interest.
Getting around
There are many ways to navigate the city. While renting a car is always an option, I would not recommend it. The Metro is a very good way to travel. As of August 2023, Metro tickets are a very affordable 5 pesos a ticket. The system is like London and Paris, with connection points throughout the system. When using public transportation, secure your belongings. There are cars upfront that are women only. I gravitated toward those. When traveling during rush hour, plan for extra time because you may have to wait for several trains before you can fit. Also edge closer to the front when your stop is close. One stop, I had to be very aggressive to get off.
It is easy to get turned around. When I veer off course when I travel (and I do), I find a Metro station to take me back to a place I am familiar with.
Before you go
Before traveling to any country, it is always a good idea to visit the U.S. Department of State for the latest information. Here is a direct link to Mexico. Please note that there are several areas of the country that the U.S. Department of State is currently recommending not to travel to.
As with any major city, use caution. Be mindful of pickpockets, be aware of your surroundings, and research which areas to avoid at night (or altogether).
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport
Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) has many direct flights, including direct flights to international locations, including Mexico City.
There are many ways to arrive at SEA. My favorite is the light rail. SEA is a very busy airport. A recent blog post overviewed the different travel programs. You can also expedite the security process by using Sea Spot Saver. After you clear TSA, visit the two Little Free Libraries in the A Concourse. Bring a book to leave and take a book to read.
Colonization
When I was there, there were protests from indigenous groups throughout the city. Whether the United States, Canada, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and the list goes on, one thing I have noticed is that indigenous groups struggle. It is shameful, and I lack the words to adequately express how I feel at the moment.
The USA
Whenever I travel, I look at my passport. I feel a certain way when I read, that “The government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.” Let it be so.
LaTonja Brown 