Mexico City

I recently traveled to Mexico City.

Mexico City is the largest city in North America — followed by New York City and Los Angeles — with around nine million people in the city and 25 million in the greater metro area. Depending on the list, it is the fifth or sixth largest city in the world by population.

As of 2018, there were 35 World Heritage Sites in Mexico. Mexico ranks first in the Americas and seventh worldwide by number of sites.

I had the advantage of staying with my friend and her family while in Mexico City. Before I left Seattle, I had curated a list of things I wanted to do and crosschecked my list against her recommendations as someone who grew up in the city.

Things to Do

Visit Different Neighborhoods

Coyocan

Coyocan is a vibrant borough in Mexico City. In the main plaza, you can find a market with vendors selling ice cream, fruit drinks, corn-on-the-cob, quesadillas, tortas, and more. The smells are a sensory delight. There are also street performers entertaining the crowds.

The Frida Kahlo Museum is in the neighborhood. Frida was born and grew up in the house that now serves as the museum. She also lived there with her husband, Diego Rivera, for several years. It is also where she passed away.

San Juan Bautista Church and Monastery was built between 1520 and 1552 and is one of three oldest parish churches in the city. The complex has been reconstructed and restored various times so not much of the original church remains.

The area has a great vibe and is worth visiting. Besides the above-mentioned there are restaurants, cafes, museums, bookstores, and other attractions.

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La Condesa

La Condesa was my favorite neighborhood and is split into three sections Colonia Condesa, Colonia Hipódromo, and Colonia Hipódromo Condesa. There are many cafes, bookstores, restaurants, galleries, and boutiques. I walked around Amsterdam Avenue and enjoyed watching people walking their dogs, jogging, or enjoying outdoor dining. Amsterdam Avenue is a street that is shaped like an elliptic so you can literally walk around it. For those familiar with Seattle neighborhoods, I would say it is a cross between Capitol Hill and Freemont.

Mexico Park is also a place you can walk around or have a picnic.

There is also a vibrant market called Mercado de Medellín, which has everything you could think of buying from fruits, vegetables, and warm foods to fish and other meats to home décor. It’s quite large, and it was filled with locals buying from their neighborhood market.

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Polanco

Polanco is a neighborhood in the Miguel Hidalgo borough of Mexico City. Polanco is home to the most expensive street in Mexico and is known as a (luxury) shopping district. You can find restaurants, hotels, as well as diplomatic mansions and embassies. The area is one of the most expensive real estate markets in all Latin America.

Chapultepec Park lays within Polanco’s borders. Other parks include Lincoln Park,

 America Park, Machado Park, and the Plaza Uruguay.

The National Museum of Anthropology, which is in Chapultepec Park, is also part of the neighborhood. I can’t say enough about this museum. I was there five hours and would have stayed longer if it had not closed. If you like history, visit and plan to be there most of the day. It takes you through the history of Mexico and the people who lived there throughout the ages. Crushed for time? My friend’s aunt, who is an anthropologist, recommends Olmecas Room, Teotihuacan Room, Mexico Room, and Mayan Room. I explored the latter three rooms twice.

Other museums located in Polanco include the Museo Tamayo (in Chapultepec) and the Sala de Arte Público Siqueiros.

In the area you can find the Maguen David Synagogue, San Augustine Church, and San Agustine Park.

The area also has street names like Socrates, Edgar Allen Poe, and Galileo.

You can get to the area by the Metro using the Polanco and Auditorio stations.

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San Angel

If you are in town on a Saturday, visit the Saturday Bazaar. There are tons of handcrafts, including jewelry, textiles, woodwork, and ceramics. There are also areas where artists sell their paintings. The bazaar is a mixture of tourists and locals buying goods. There are many shops and boutiques as well as street vendors (food and goods).

The neighborhood has cobblestone streets and colonial homes. There are also galleries, museums, cafes, and restaurants. One of the museums includes works by Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera.

Behind the market you will see San Jacinto Church and Monastery. 

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Historical Center

There is a lot packed in the Zócalo or main square and the historic center. I went there over several days to do activities.

When I first saw the Cathedral of Mexico City, my jaw dropped. It rivaled those in Europe. The cathedral is in Zocalo (the main square). You will notice a European feel to the area as Italian designers were brought in for some of the buildings. In the area you can find the Palace of Fine Arts (be sure to stroll the adjacent park, Alameda Park), Templo Mayor (you can see quite a bit from outside), National Palace, House of Tiles, and the Postal Palace.

Be sure to walk along Tacuba Street, which is the oldest street in Mexico City.

The National Palace is worth the visit. Please note you must sign in using some sort of photo identification (and leave the identification for the duration of the tour). There are scheduled tours for different languages, so check before you go for the current times. The tour is free, and you are shown the murals of Diego Rivera and given in-depth analysis of each mural. At the end of the tour, you are given a complimentary book about the palace. Please note this is as of August 2023.

There are other churches nearby such as St. Francis Church and La Santisma Church. Please note, I was told to visit the latter church early in the day due to unsavory activity in the area at night.

Walking along, I ran into the Barrio Chino, which is near the Palace of Fine Arts. The neighborhood consists of two blocks and has restaurants and businesses that import goods.

The San Juan Market is mentioned on a list I saw, but for me, it was underwhelming.

You will also encounter different plazas including Plaza de la Constitución and Plaza del Caballito.

You can get to the area by the Metro using the Zócalo station.

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Walking

You can walk along the Promenade of the Reform and run into many sculptures and statues including the Angel of Independence, the Monument to the Revolution (which is not on Reform but can be seen from the street), and Monument to Cuauhtémoc. You can see a great view of the street from Chapultepec Castle. Be mindful to follow the street. There is a plethora of roundabouts, so it’s easy to veer off course as I personally experienced.

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Bosque de Chapultepec

Bosque de Chapultepec is divided into four sections. The first section is the oldest and most visited and includes Chapultepec Castle, Chapultepec Zoo, the Museum of Anthropology, and the Tamayo Museum, among others.

Chapultepec Forest is one of the largest city parks in Mexico at around 1,700 acres. The area was a retreat location for Aztec rulers. Chapultepec Castle was built during colonization and became the official residence of Mexico’s heads of state until 1934.

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Teotihuacan Pyramids

I visited the Teotihuacan Pyramids via a tour operated by Turitour. The tour has two options, one of which is an express. The guide was very knowledgeable, and I learned a lot of history. The “pyramids” are not pyramids; they are temples, including temples to the sun and moon. The temple to the moon may be a temple to the Goddess of Fertility.

Note the area is hard to navigate, especially the steps. A family with two strollers decided to forgo the tour of the pyramids. Also be sure to bring water and a hat. There are vendors who sell hats for 200 pesos (price as of August 2023). Also dress comfortably and wear sunscreen. The area was hotter than the city.

I won’t get into the history of the location, but it is rich and worth researching.

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Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe

I went to the basilica thinking I would be there for 30 minutes to an hour. I was there much longer. There is a lot to see, and it is a place of pilgrimage for many. I read that only St. Peter’s Basilica has more visitors among the Marian churches. Around nine million people visit around December 12 alone, which is the day on which Saint Mary of Guadalupe is celebrated. The site has two basilicas, the Templo Expiatorio a Cristo Rey (Old Basilica of Guadalupe) and the New Basilica of Guadalupe as well as Capilla del Cerrito, Temple and Convent of Las Capuchinas, Capilla del Pocito, and Capilla de Indios.

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The Mercado de Artesanías de La Ciudadela

The market has around 350 vendors selling handicraft items from around the country. The market has blankets, tablecloths, and other textiles as well as dishes and glassware, mirrors, clothing, handbags, silver, ceramics, jewelry, and much more.

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Eat like a local

The main meal is in the afternoon. It is a great time to catch up and eat over several courses. Eating with the family are treasured memories!

While I did not eat from any street vendors, the smells were delightful! They were everywhere, especially by Metro stations and places of interest.

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Getting around

There are many ways to navigate the city. While renting a car is always an option, I would not recommend it. The Metro is a very good way to travel. As of August 2023, Metro tickets are a very affordable 5 pesos a ticket. The system is like London and Paris, with connection points throughout the system. When using public transportation, secure your belongings. There are cars upfront that are women only. I gravitated toward those. When traveling during rush hour, plan for extra time because you may have to wait for several trains before you can fit. Also edge closer to the front when your stop is close. One stop, I had to be very aggressive to get off.

It is easy to get turned around. When I veer off course when I travel (and I do), I find a Metro station to take me back to a place I am familiar with.

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Before you go

Before traveling to any country, it is always a good idea to visit the U.S. Department of State for the latest information. Here is a direct link to Mexico. Please note that there are several areas of the country that the U.S. Department of State is currently recommending not to travel to.

As with any major city, use caution. Be mindful of pickpockets, be aware of your surroundings, and research which areas to avoid at night (or altogether).

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport

Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (SEA) has many direct flights, including direct flights to international locations, including Mexico City.

There are many ways to arrive at SEA. My favorite is the light rail. SEA is a very busy airport. A recent blog post overviewed the different travel programs. You can also expedite the security process by using Sea Spot Saver. After you clear TSA, visit the two Little Free Libraries in the A Concourse. Bring a book to leave and take a book to read.

Colonization

When I was there, there were protests from indigenous groups throughout the city. Whether the United States, Canada, Mexico, Australia, New Zealand, South Africa, and the list goes on, one thing I have noticed is that indigenous groups struggle. It is shameful, and I lack the words to adequately express how I feel at the moment.

The USA

Whenever I travel, I look at my passport. I feel a certain way when I read, that “The government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from the earth.” Let it be so.

Paris

Paris and the journey there

We got up bright and early to take the train from Strasbourg to Paris. This is my second time here, so I don’t feel the pressure to do everything. This is Clara’s third time here, so she feels the same way. So, we can slow down and be at leisure as our vacation wraps up.

Our train got in around 10:30. We found our hotel and arrived way before check in, so we dropped off our luggage and away we went.

The first stop was to the Place de la Bastille. The monument has a statue of liberty.

We did some walking around before taking the Metro to Montmartre. Between the two of us, we are remembering how to navigate the system. I can remember getting lost my first trip here and catching the Metro between lines to get to a stop I knew.

The weather is still nice and there were a lot of people up there. Rue Norvins is the oldest street and Place de Tertre is the main square.

The crown jewel up there is the Sacre Coeur (Sacred Heart) Basilica, and the view from there is nice as well. The area is Paris’ highest point (420’). The Church of St. Pierre-de-Montmartre’s is nearby. It is one of the oldest churches in the city (1147). It was founded by King Louise VI and his wife Adelaide.

The Dali Museum is also up there. His painting “The Persistence of Memory” is one of my favorite paintings. The Surrealist painting was done in 1931.

Passed by Le Passe-Muraille, the man who walks through walls. I remember this from my first trip to Paris. Strolled by the Clos Montmarte Vineyards. Wine has been produced by monks and nuns of the abbey since the 12^th century.

Saw one of Renoir’s homes on our way to the St. Denis Statue. I don’t think I mentioned it, but we loosely followed a walk outlined in a Rick Steves’ guidebook. St. Denis was an early Christian bishop who was executed by the Romans for spreading the gospel.

A lot of artists were drawn to this place such as Renoir, Picasso, and Van Gogh. I was inclined to like Paris before I ever came here. Black artists from Josephine Baker and James Baldwin found solace here.

I remember the first time I came here; I was told about the importance of saying, “Bonjour” to people before you engage them. When you walk into a place from buying a bottle of water to buying a jambon and fromage sandwich, that courtesy is very important and goes along way. It reminds me at home when I often just get off with it without that simple courtesy.

The trip is wrapping up at lightning speed. Four nights and ready or not, here I come (home).

The hotel is okay. It’s old and has had been handling guest for over one hundred years. My biggest beef is that the Wi-Fi is slow. It takes so much to do things here. For example, in the last four hotels I was able to load pictures each day very quickly. This would take forever, so I will have to do them when I get home.

With that said, I do like the location and the décor is fun. Next time I come, I’ll try a different hotel in the same location. The location works out to walk a lot of places. Well, we tended to take the Metro out and then walk back.

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Chartes and Paris Day 2

We got up bright and early and took the train to Chartres. We were able to stay longer because we barely missed a train and then the next Paris train was not going to the station we wanted. In all, it was three to four hours.

It took a little over an hour to get here.

The main attraction is the Chartres Cathedral. Like the Strasbourg Cathedral, it is huge. I like Chartres a lot better. The Strasbourg Cathedral was like cattle hoarding, like what I remember in St. Mark’s. It is believed that it was built over a pagan temple dedicated to the mother-goddess. There have been several churches here, including one that acquired a torn veil in 876, which was believed to have been worn by Mary when she gave birth to Jesus. The official name of the current church is Cathedral Notre-Dame de Chartres. There are many Notre Dames out there.

We wandered around the city some, and we also visited Church of St. Aignan. It is the oldest parish church in Chartres. Locals did not worship in the cathedral. It was for visitors, and they worshiped in parish churches. Its interior dates to around 1625. We did some more wandering and headed back to Paris.

We took the Metro to the Eiffel Tower. It wasn’t how I remember it. So much is gated off. The park I remember picnicking out is partly closed off and the green grass is spotty. Still, it will be nice to do a comparison then and now shot of my first trip to Paris and this one.

From there we walked to Arc de Triomphe. It’s now gated, and you have to pay to get to the square. I’ll need to check my pictures, but I don’t remember it being like that when I came. We walked down the Champs-Elysees, with its shops. The first section was opened in 1667 by Louis XIV and was the place to be seen.

On the way home, we detoured to see the Grand and Petit Palais as well as one side of the Pont Alexandre III. The Grand and Petit were built for the 1900 World’s Fair. The Pont Alexandre III is a bridge that connects the Champs-Élysées quarter with the Invalides and Eiffel Tower. It was built between 1896 and 1900 and named after Tsar Alexander III.

We went to the Place de la Concorde where over 2,700 people were beheaded during the French Revolution (the guillotine sat on this square). The obelisk of Luxor, which is 3,300 years old, is near where Louis XVI, Marie Antionette and others were beheaded.

From there, we walked to the Louvre, which was closed, but we were able to enjoy the square before grabbing dinner and walking home. The weather held up today, but it is supposed to rain the next few days. Not too bad for early November and people are still outside. Its loud by our window.  

Today we walked over 37,000 steps according to my phone. My Fitbit is not working. How long ae they supposed to last? I’ve only been using it for a little over a year.

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Versailles and Paris Day Three

We got up early to catch the train to Versailles. What we did not know is that the station closest to us to get there is closed until December. So, we were able to enjoy a nice morning walk to the next station. Our walk gave us another peak at Notre Dame and took us to the Musee d’Orsay.

This was my first trip to Versailles. I meant to go my first trip, but time got away from me. It is massive and the grounds and gardens seem to go on and on and on! We got hit with rain off and on during our walk around the grounds. I think we spent like three and that was just around the grounds! I got over 35,000 steps! Louis XIV (the Sun King) created Versailles by turning his dad’s hunting lodge into a place that was fir the gods.

On the way back, we stopped at the Musee d’Orsay stop on the C Line and walked to Sainte-Chappelle from there. The lines were long but nowadays you must book in advance for a time slot. How things have changed. Basically, buy tickets ahead for where you want to go and use your mobile phone or have a printout. Some places also require you to specify a time slot. Sainte-Chapelle was built between 1242 and 1248. It was built to house the Crown of Thorns, which are now at Notre Dame and only brought out on Good Friday.

Clara and I parted ways, and I went to take pictures of what I could around Notre Dame as it continues to be worked on. It’s hard to not compare this trip to my last, but I am so glad I got to see a lot of these places before all the changes.

A lot of the booksellers’ stalls are closed already with only a few open. When I came before, it was in July or August, so they were in full swing.

I went by the Shakespeare and Company Bookstore. I don’t remember waiting in line last time, but this time I did. It was cool to get in there and get some stuff plus go up to the reading room. The Left Bank has been the home of scholars, philosophers, and poets so yes, I want to be there. I saw Square René Viviani before going into the store.

I stumbled upon St. Severin church and around the Latin Quarter. Went along Boulevard St. Michel and Place St. Michel, which is the traditional core of the Left Bank’s artsy, bohemian district of poets and philosophers.

Somewhere in the evening, it had stopped raining, so I was able to grab some food and walk back to the hotel.

Oh, and the Cite Metropolitan Metro Stop is one of only a few of the original subway entrances.

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Paris Day 4

Today was all about churches. We started the day visiting Saint-Gervais Church. The current church was built between 1494 and 1657 on the site of two earlier churches. Next, we went to The Church of Saint-Sulpice. It is slightly smaller than Notre-Dame and the second-largest church in the city. It is the second church on the site. Construction of the current building began in 1646. The next stop was Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

We walked through the former Jewish quarters were there is a memorial and museum. We did a lot of walking through different streets like Rue Rambeteau and Rue Montorgueil. The latter is a pedestrian and permanent market street.

The next church stop was the Church of St. Eustache. The present building was built between 1532 and 1632. After the Notre Dame fire, the Easter Mass at Notre-Dame was relocated here. The church is in the Les Halles area, which used to be home of the largest food market. A chapel was built on the site in 1213 dedicated to Saint Agnes. It became the parish church of the Les Halles area in 1223 and was renamed Saint-Eustache in 1303.

Clara and I parted ways, and I went back to Shakespeare and Company Bookstore for a few more books.

I was determined to walk the Boulevard Saint-Germain. I started where it crosses Boulevard Saint-Michel. I’m not quite sure how the idea got stuck in my head. When it ended, I was parallel to the Obelisk at the Palais Bourbon, which is now the meeting place of the National Assembly, the lower legislative chamber of the French Parliament. It was original built for Louise Françoise de Bourbon, Duchess of Bourbon, the legitimized daughter of Louis XIV and the Marquise de Montespan.

I was close to the bridge Pont Alexandre III a few days ago, but it was getting dark so couldn’t cross it to get pictures. I did so and went to Les Invalides as well. It contains museums and monuments relating to the military history of France. We drew my eyes was the Dôme des Invalides, which contains the tomb of Napoleon. I was able to go into the chapel Church of Saint-Louis-des-Invalides.

I also returned to the Place de la Concorde for better pictures as well as pictures of the museums by it.

I went by the Conciergerie, which is where Marie-Antoinette was imprisoned, tried, and sentenced. It is now a national monument and museum. It was originally part of the former royal palace, the Palais de la Cité, which also included the Sainte-Chapelle.

Perhaps because it was Friday, there were so many more vendors out than I had seen. The sunset was so beautiful!

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October 2022 Trip overall thoughts

In hindsight, flying directly to Germany (either via Lufthansa or Condor) would get us there earlier, though Aer Lingus prices are hard to beat.

While the ticket machines at various places can be figured out, an initial conversation with an actual person helps clarify things until the system is more understood. So plan on arriving when people are still working.

While I am thinking mentioning it, some places require advance booking (so they can control the number of people), so check before you go there. I don’t have an international package on my phone, so I am unable to show passes on my mobile. Something to think about.

Also, some places are card only, so they don’t accept cash. As they say, “Know before you go.”

Strasbourg

Strasbourg and the journey there

We got up early and walked around the city from 8:00 a.m. to almost 10:00 a.m. We were able to see the Three Towers, the middle of which dates to the medieval times as well as more views into the Lower City and Petrusse Valley, as well as the “Hollow Tooth” and Adolpe Bridge. I didn’t get down to the Lower City this trip.

After the walk, we hightailed it to the train station. Because of the repair work, we had to bus it to Metz, France, and take the train to Strasbourg, France, from there.

When Clara said she wanted to go Strasbourg, I assumed it was in Germany by the name. However, it is part of France now. The region has gone back and forth over time.

We were able to walk to Hotel Rohan. My first thought on hearing the name? “Now is the hour! Riders of Rohan! Oaths you have taken, now fulfill them all, to lord and land!” The hotel is literally seconds away from the cathedral.

The Strasbourg Cathedral or the Cathedral of Our Lady of Strasbourg is a Catholic cathedral in Strasbourg, Alsace, France. The cathedral was finished in 1439. It was the tallest building in the world from 1647 to 1874. It is the sixth-tallest church in the world, and the last still standing extant structure built entirely in the Middle Ages.

The square the cathedral is in also has the Kammerzell House, which is a half-timbered house. 75 windows depict characters from the Bible and mythology and the Zodiac signs.

We saw the Rohan Palace, which is the former residence of the prince-bishops and cardinals of the House of Rohan. The first bishop was the son of Louis XIV. They were an ancient French noble family from Brittany. It was built next to Strasbourg Cathedral in the 1700s and has hosted French monarchs such as Louis XV, Marie Antoinette, Napoleon and Joséphine, and Charles X. The final bishop of the house was involved in the Marie Antionette necklace scandal.

We went into St. Thomas’ Church. It is the main Lutheran church of the city since its cathedral became Catholic again after the annexation of the town by France in 1681. The current site was used as a place of worship under the patronage of Thomas the Apostle as early as the sixth century. In the ninth century, a church with adjoining school was established, which burned down in 1007 and in 1144. Construction began in 1196 and was completed in 1521.

We went to La Petite France as well. The area used to be one of the poorest areas, but it now a major tourist attraction. The district goes back to the 14^th century.

We were only in the hotel for one night, but I enjoyed it. Great location and met all my qualifications.

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Ghent

Road to Ghent via Brussels

We said goodbye to Berlin and hello to Ghent via an almost four-hour stopover in Brussels.

My Fitbit resets at 12:00 Seattle time, which is 9:00 a.m. in Berlin, so some of my steps from this morning local time show up in yesterday’s reading, which was a whopping 16.14 miles. While today shows a modest 9.38. Some of those miles from yesterday were from today.

I got an email saying our flight was delayed, which was a Godsend. I wasn’t looking forward to waking up at the crack of down. So, we left at a more decent time. Whenever I book early morning flights, I wonder what I was thinking. They seemed like a good idea at the time. On the way here, our flight was also delayed by two hours, so it gave time to do all that I didn’t to get some plus some.

The experience at the airport going out was bonkers. We were not able to use the check in machines for some bizarre reason. We had to stand in this long line that ran painfully slow. Then the line for the security check point was also long. This lady held up the line forever. She had so many bins and kept opening bags and taking more stuff out. Meanwhile, I’m standing about five people back with everything that needed to be out already in hand. She was just so oblivious to it all. We ended up changing lines. We had to hustle to our gate and made it just as they were opening the gate to catch the ride to our plane on the tarmac. It was stressful. I’m one of the get to the airport and chill person, as is Clara. Still not sure why we couldn’t get the boarding passes to print.

While it was great being late to sleep in early, it wasn’t so good our plan to do a stopover in Brussels on our way to Ghent, we lost some of the time for exploring Brussels, which ended up being almost four hours. We put our stuff in a locker at the central station, and away we went.

Still, we were able to see a lot of stuff in the Old Town and some of the surrounding area. It has a cool vibe, and I can see myself going back to see more. Brussels was founded around 580 and was a stopping point between Bruges and Cologne in the 12^th Century.

We started in the Market Place aka The Grand Place, which is the center of the Old Town. It includes the Town Hall, the House of the King, the House of the Duke of Burgandys and other houses. I love visiting the old town in most cities. It’s a great place to people watch and imagine the people who have walked there for hundreds of years.

The Town Hall was built in the 1400’s and is topped by a statue of St. Michael slaying the devil. I’ve seen this everyone along with St. George slaying the dragon. I feel like somewhere in there is a message for me!

The House of the King (or King’s House) has an 800-year-hisotry. It’s been a bread market, the regional office for the empire of Charles V, and is now the city museum.

One of the buildings near Town Hall is where Karl Marx and Fredrich Engels wrote their Communist Manifesto. I didn’t know that then, but now that I do, I would have paid better attention to which one. I’m sure it’s probably in one of my pictures.

We were able to spend some time in Saints Michael and Gudule Cathedral. After that, we walked to the Column of Congress and over to the Belgium Parliament buildings. The Cathedral was built between 1200 and 1500.

Went into Notre Dame of Sablon, which is a lovely church. Building began in 1400 and took more than a century to complete. The church was damaged during the religious wars and the French Revolution and restored in the 19^th century. The church has an interesting founding story you should look up. Still confused if the statue was “found” or “stolen.”

While getting to the Royal Park, we saw the Belgiam Parliament. The park was modeled after Versailles for Empress Marie Theresa (Marie Antoinette’s mom). It was quite lovely to look at, and as I have said, we are having very nice weather!

Saw the Royal Palace. It is used as an office for the current king. The BELvue Museum is right next door.

We went to the Church of St. Jacob. The church was built between 1776 and1780. It was used as an abbey and parish church. During the French Revolution, the abbey was made into a Temple of Reason. The church was returned to Catholic control in 1802. Prince Leopold of Saxe-Coburg-Gotha (Prince Albert’s uncle I believe) became Leopold I, the first King of the Belgians, on the front steps of the church.

We saw a few more things, but I think these are the highlights. We did quite a bit for only four hours. I would like to go back and see European Parliament, Matonge District, and Memorial 1815.

We wanted to get to Ghent and find our home for the next nights before it got dark. I haven’t really started taking pictures because I had my luggage, but I am about to go wild with the camera. It’s so amazing! While I was in Brussels, I was trying to remember why we choose Ghent. Now I remember. Plus, it’s a good middle ground between Brussels and Bruges location wise. More about where we are staying after hour trip, but I love it!!

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Ghent Day 1

We had a 13.44-mile day!

The day started with a nice breakfast at our hotel. I’ll say more about it after we leave (not sure if I will get around posting this before we leave but just in case), but it’s awesome. The breakfast area has a communal table plus tables for those who want to only sit with their party. There is also a seating area that you can get coffee, tea, wine, and cake at will and a patio for nice days. It was 70 today, and it was nice. So nice that Clara and ate outside for dinner. Breakfast has bread made that morning, homemade jams, homemade yogurt, fruit, cheese, meat, and nuts. It was a great start of the day. It is a little steep in price, but it ended up being breakfast and lunch.

The first stop was St. James Church. It was closed, and we planned to revisit it another day (see below).

We stopped by to get tickets for a daytrip to Brugge the following day.

We made our way to St. Bavo’s Abbey and the nearby St. Macharius Church. The abbey was closed, so we planned to visit it Friday. See details below for the visit.

We saw St. Anne’s Church. A chapel dedicated to St. Anne was built on the site of a parish church in 1644. The current church was consecrated in 1869.

We visited Small Beguinage Our Lady Tery Hoyen. The Beguines were single women who lived together as a Catholic Community. They did not take vows, but they had to lives by the rules as long as they lived there. Rules like obedience to their supervisors, chastity, and austerity. The ladies were persecuted as witches or heretics because of their independent statuses during certain times. By the end of the 18^th century, the practice dwindled. The last Ghent beguine died in 2008, shy of 100. It was foundedin 1234 by the Countess of Flanders.

Next was Our Lady of St. Peter’s Church and St. Peter’s Abbey and Garden. The first church dated back to the 12/13^th century and converted in the 17^th century. There was another church that did not survive the French Revolution nearby, so this one was renamed. The abbey was founded by St. Amand in the 7^th century. They grow wine grapes, apples, figs, and quinces. Clara spoke with a man named Jeroen who was picking quinces he and his wife would turn to preserves. As we were leaving, we talked to him so more.

Then we explored the Old Town and around. There are tons of large churches all within one area.

The Castle of Gerald the Devil was the home of a knight who had dark hair and dark skin. He and his wife are buried in St. Bavo’s Cathedral.

Then made our way to St. Bavo’s Cathedral, Town Hall, NTGent, Belfry, St. Nicholas, St. Michael’s Bridge and St. Michael’s. See more about each in the Friday entry.

We saw the Castle of the Counts and plan to go in on another day. Funny, we ran into Jeroen on our way there as he was picking up his child. Then they biked by us a third time. It’s rare in Flanders in that is a medieval fortress with its defense system still intact. It dates backs to the Roman occupation.

We went to Old St. Elizabeth Beguinage. The Beguinage included a church, the home of the mother superior, and infirmary, a chapel, room for more than 100 ladies, a bleach field, and an orchard.

We passed through Vrijagmarkt Square, which has been a square since 1199. The market was closed. The square used to be used for executions the last of which took place in 1822. It’s also used for formal receptions, parties, and celebrations. Ons Huis is on the street and was the party headquarters for an organization that established the first socialist health insurance fund. See more about the market in a later post.

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Ghent Day 2 + Day trip to Brugge

I was excited to return to Bruges! When Clara and I decided on which city to stay in (Brussels, Ghent, and Bruges) we choose Ghent because we could do quick day trips to both via train.

We missed the train, and we had an hour before the next one, so we were able to visit the nearby Portus Ganda. We had used the Dampoort Station, while closer to our hotel, has less trains. The city of Ghent developed around the confluence (Ganda) of the Lys and the Scheldt. The Portus Ganda marina is there now. Some of the river is now covered by concrete. It would be interesting to see how the area looked originally. I’m always fascinating to see how Seattle looked before landfill.

We started by taking a walk outlined in Rick Steves’ guidebook, which includes:

Market Square is the heart of the city. It its heyday, the canal used to come right up to the square. Today it teems with life, especially on a nice day like today. Though it rained for about 30 minutes when we first got here.

We walked up the Bell Tower, which is 366 steps. When I came the first time, part of the view was obstructed because of construction. This trip, I had no excuse. It had good views of the city. I was breathing hard walking up there.

Burg Square is a historic square and the square the basilica is in. It’s the site of a ninth-century castle of the first count of Flanders.

We visited the Basilica of the Holy Blood, and I can remember coming here last time I was here. The church was built by a crusader to house the drops of Christ’s bloods he’d brought from Jerusalem. The blood was washed from Christ’s body and preserved in a vial. The blood was donated to the city of Ghent. For two centuries, every Friday the dried blood would become liquid, according to pilgrims.

City Hall was built around 1400. It was used as a model for other city halls, including the one in Brussels.

Renaissance Hall has served as a governing palace, courthouse, and is now the city archives. The façade dates back from the 1720s.

Blinde-Ezelstraat (Blind Donkey Street) may be a street where owners placed blinders on so donkeys could be led to the market.

Bruges is about 12 miles from the North Seas so there used to be a big Fish Market. Today it’s mostly vendors selling other stuff.

Huidevettersplein is a square that used to be headquarters of the town’s skinners and tanners

I was excited to return to the Church of our Lady, but it has changed since I was here in 2010. A few years after I visited, they began some renovations, so I didn’t recognize a church I so loved. So that means St. Colman’s Cathedral in Cobn, Ireland, is now my uncontested favorite church in the world.

St. John’s Hospital is the site of the former wards and church but is now a museum.

We went to the Begijnhof, a complex of buildings built to house Beguines. They would spend their day in prayer, spinning wool, making lace, teaching, and taking care of the sick. The numbers were high during the Golden Age when women were widowed or unwed due to war and overseas trade. The women had a place to live and work and be independent and not be a burden on family.

Minnewater (Water of Love) is a park filled with canals, willows, and swans. I remember it from the first trip. So peaceful and full of joggers and people riding their bikes.

The rest of the time was spent wandering around the city, though the walk did include some canal and bridge picture options. It’s very hard to take a bad picture there. It’s so beautiful.

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Ghent Day Three

We returned to St. James Church. Since as early as 1093, a church has been on this site. The original was probably a wooden chapel, which was replaced by a stone building in the 12^th century. It may have been a stopping point for pilgrims on their way to the shrine of St James in Santiago de Compostela. The church was Romanesque style, but it has had restoration, which was early Gothic and Baroque. It was open, so we were able to look inside.

The church is very close to the Vrijdagmarkt, which was very busy on a Friday. You name it, it was being sold—meat, seafood, cheese, bread, clothes, etc. The clothes prices looked reasonable, but I did not check the quality. The market was filled with locals looking for bargains. It was a great place for “street photography.” Near the market is a Big Cannon that dates to 1431 and weighs 12,500 kg. It used to be ox red color and referred to as the “Big Red Devil.” There is also a statue of Jacob Van Artevelde, who as an entrepreneur and politician. He was the leader of a group of insurgents and undid a boycott of English wool imports. He also helped Edward III become King of France. Edward III was crowned in the market. Jacob was murdered in the courtyard of his house by the head of the weavers.

Clara and I parted ways, and I went by the Castle of the Counts on my way to Prinsenhof ruins. Passed by, Lena, Luna & Nestor and the House of Alijn on the way. The former are statues, Nestor is dressed in new outfits. The latter is the only almshouse in Ghent that is preserved. It was a charitable institution where the old and sick were cared for. It is now a museum for children.

Prinsenhof was of interest because Emperor Charles V was born here. His aunt, Catherine of Aragon, was Henry VIII’s first wife and the mother of Mary I. He was engaged to Mary I at some point, but he ended up marrying his cousin (I believe her name was Isabella of Portugal). He received governors there several times, and one time 17 were beheaded and one was burned to death. Now the “Dark Gate” is all that remains. The Rabot is near there.

There are a few areas to relax and enjoy the water. One is Graslie & Korenlei, which is described as the “beating heart” of the city center. Since the 11^th century, trading activity happened along the quays and the area became the city’s port. All grain passed through there.

Joined back with Clara, and we returned to the St. Bavo’s Abbey ruins. It was originally founded by St. Amand and rechristened in the 9^th century. Its heyday was in the 11^th century. It competed with St. Peter’s Abbey and has the oldest wall in Ghent that is still standing. A pilgrim named Macharius died of the plague here. There is a St. Macharius Church nearby. Charles V had the abbey church destroyed as retaliation for an uprising. The outline of the original church has been recreated with green shrubs.

While there, we met a few people from Vancouver, Canada. They were in Ghent for the day and had been attending a conference in a nearby city. We talked politics and history.

We ran into the people from Vancouver at St. Bavo’s Cathedral. It was quite nice there. All the churches have very high ceilings and are nicely decorated. The cathedral is the oldest parish church in Ghent. It was built on the site of a church that dates to the 10^th century.

Clara and I parted ways. She went to do laundry, and I walked around before going to St Michael’s Bridge. It has great views of the three towers (I think about The Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers). I was able to spend some time enjoying the nice weather and journalling. The weather is so nice, and so the sitting area was full of people to watch. The boat tours also launch there. It was tempting as it was 9 euro for 40 minutes…not bad.

After I finished journaling, I went St. Michaels Church. Construction started in 1440, but it was not finished until 1825, which is quite long. There were funding issues. It has a statue of St. Michael slaying the serpent, and it has very nice stain-glanced windows. I ran into the people from Vancouver here again. I saw them, and I backtracked to get behind them, and I told them, “Now I am following you.” They had just gone to the Belfry, and they showed me great pictures. Plus, I learned it had an elevator. I was sold. After walking up the 366 stairs in Ghent, I was not wanting to do it again.

The Belfry had amazing views of the city. I may or may not have gone overboard with taking pictures. The belfries in France and Flanders symbolize freedom, power, and urban prosperity. There is a dragon on the top.

St Nicholas Church is from the early 12^th century. There seemed to be some sort of display, so I did not bother going inside. He is the patron saint of merchants and sailors. The church highlights the powers and wealth of the merchants.

The City Pavilion was finished in 2012 as part of an urban development project. The Town Hall has a wedding chapel. The NTGent is the home of Ghent’s municipal theater.

One path home took us pass Achtersikkel. The round tower dates to the 14^th/15^th centuries. It is the current home of the music academy.

The Reep is also a great place to relax and enjoy the water and nice weather.

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Accommodations

Ganda

I absolute adore this hotel. The couple who own it are very lovely and helpful. The bed is comfortable, and the shower works well. The breakfast is nice, and it is healthy. The location is awesome. We are far enough from the main drag to feel like we are staying in actual neighborhood of the city, but we are close enough to walk to the Old Town and the surrounding areas.

My only cautions are these. One, the wi-fi was a little spotty and slower than Berlin. It’s on and functional. Just an observation from my time there. Two. Be sure to print out instructions on how to get there if you plan to walk from the tram. We got a little turned around because we didn’t map it out in advance. We ended up seeing a map on the street and then navigating there. So, if you are on transit like us to get there, map it out.

Berlin

I have not traveled outside of North America since 2019 due to the pandemic. It was nice to break out my passport once again.

Leg one of the trip was Berlin.

Berlin: The journey there

We (my friend Clara and I) flew Aer Lingus to Berlin via Dublin. Our departure flight was delayed a few hours, which gave me extra time to get myself together at home. We met at the airport, and I had a very fast experience getting my boarding pass and clearing TSA.

I was able to sleep on the plane, and I also watched some episodes of The Office as well as the first four episodes of the third season of Derry Girls. If you have not watched it, it is hilarious. The third season came out on Netflix, but I had not had a chance to watch it.

By the time we hit Berlin, it was after 9:00 p.m. After some effort, we found the hotel. Finding the hotel is always the hardest part of entering a new city. Once that is discovered, things go smoothly. And, as day goes by, the transit system is also more understood. But the hotel is near the stop (more on that later under accommodations).

Berlin Day One

Berlin is a city that has been high on my list. It’s almost halfway between Paris and Moscow. I’d been around to the Bavarian region of Germany, but I had never made it up this way.

With a little over 33,000 steps—for a little over 14 miles—we covered quite a bit of the city day one.

We started off at Brandenburger Tor (Brandenburg Gate). I’ll be using some history from my guidebook, which I will assume is correct. The gate is the only remaining of four that were built for King Frederick Wilhelm II. It’s the site for Unification Day and New Year’s Eve parties. My guidebook says it’s the site of the former border between the East and the West. The upper part of the gate was destroyed in the war but restored. The gate faces Pariser Platz, which is where the U.S. embassy is.

Next was the Reichstag, which is their parliament building, from the outside. We went inside another day. We explored a little bit of Tiergarten, which is about 14 miles.

We saw a Memorial to the Sinti and Roma of Europe who were murdered under national socialism. It is a circular pool of water that says, “Pallid face, dead eyes, cold lips, silence a broken heart, without breath, without words.” We also saw the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. The Holocaust memorial is on the former location of the Berlin Wall where the death strip divided the city. There are 2,711 rectangular concrete blocks (slabs) laid out in a formation. Both were very sobering. With what is happening in the world today, it seems like we never learn from history.

We went to Potsdamer Platz where we saw some pieces from the Berlin Wall. From my reading, this was a happening area prewar and rebuilt in recent history. Saw where Checkpoint Charlie was. I had no idea that the checkpoints for the Allies were named based off the NATO phonetic alphabet, and there were also Checkpoints Alpha and Bravo.

We explored the Kreuzberg neighborhood, which I thought was heck of cool. Think old Freemont or old Capitol Hill.

Unter den Linden is a street, which means under the linden trees and ran through the former East Germany. It runs from Brandenburg Gate to Alexanderplatz. The street was lined with the trees before Hitler had them remove to make the street “parade friendly.” The trees were replanted after the war. The boulevard began as a riding path from the palace to the hunting ground, which is now Tiergarten. Also walked around Friedrichstrasse.

The Gendarmenmarkt square includes the French Cathedral, which was built by the Huguenot community between 1701 and 1705 and was modelled after a destroyed Huguenot church in Charenton-Saint-Maurice, France. It also includes the German Cathedral, which was built in 1708. The German Church was destroyed by fire in 1945and rebuilt. And the Konzerthaus, which was built in 1821. It was also damaged during WWII, rebuilt, and turned into a concert hall.

Saw a square called Bebelplatz, which has the State Opera building, Humboldt University and St. Hedwig’s Cathedral, which was the first Catholic church built in Prussia after the Reformation. The cathedral is the mother church of the archdiocese of Berlin and was modeled after the Pantheon in Rome.

At this point, Clara returned to the hotel, and I kept going and saw the Berlin Cathedral, Berlin TV Tower, and German History Museum.

Saw the front side of the Museum Island (Museumsinsel)—Altest Museum. There’s also a nice park/square there. Oh, and I also visited Alexanderplatz and saw the Berlin Town Hall, Saint Marin church, and a bunch of other stuff.

Side Note: For more information on the places after Clara and I departed ways, see post three as we visited the places together as well.

Berlin Day Two + daytrip to Potsdam

Today was another 14-mile day!

The day began with a day trip to Potsdam, Germany, which is a quick train ride away.

From the train station, we walked to Alter Markt, a central square in the city’s old town. The square was designed by architects of Frederick the Great, except for the church. Alter Markt was heavily destroyed during WWII and suffered further damage in 1960. A replica of the area has since been rebuilt.

The original St. Nikolai (St. Nikolaikirche) was built between 1830 and 1837. During the end of WWII, the building was hit by an air raid. After years of reconstruction, the church was consecrated in 1981. There is an obelisk in front that was originally created between 1753 and 1755. The obelisk was damaged in the war. It was dismantled down to its base in 1969 and rebuilt in 1978/1979 using red marble from Siberia and white marble from North Macedonia.

The Old Town Hall has a gilded Atlas statue and houses the Potsdam Museum, which extends to the adjacent buildings, Windelbandsche and Knobelsdorffhaus.

The Museum Barberini is a replica of the Palazzo Barberini in Rome. If I have my building name corrects, the building next to it is the Noack’s House, which was built in 1777, destroyed in 1945, and rebuilt in 2016. The building is also known as Palazzo Chiericati. Next to that is the Palazzo Pompei.It was built in 1754, destroyed in 1945, and rebuilt in 2016. The Palazzo Pompei may be a replica of a palace built in Verona in 1540.

The Potsdam City Palace is next to the St. Nikolaikirche. It was the winter residence of the margraves and electors of Brandenburg back in the day. It was damaged in WWII and dismantled by the communist regime. A partial reconstruction was completed in 2013. The building houses the parliament of the federal state of Brandenburg.

Next, we went in search of the Dutch Quarter. Friedrich Wilhelm I built the area in 1742 because he wanted artists from the Netherlands to help with the city’s rapid growth. Not many came. Now it’s a variety of shops and restaurants. Since it was Sunday, there were people out having breakfast/brunch.

There is also a Brandenburg Gate in Potsdam, which was built in 1770–71 by order of Frederick II of Prussia. We saw the Church of St. Peter and St. Paul, which is down the street from it. The gate is prototype of the Arch of Constantine in Rome. The city wall was demolished around 1900, so the Brandenburg Gate is now a free-standing structure.

We wandered our way to the Schloss Sanssoci, which was quite lovely. We were able to see the palace and some of the beautiful grounds before returning to Berlin. I really enjoyed Potsdam, and I would love to go back there and spend more time. Maybe a day or two to really explore the city.

We had an appointment to walk up the dome at Reichstag, which is the Parliament Building. We were we able to get tickets our first day in the city, when we saw it from the outside. It’s worth doing, and it is free. Note: As mentioned above, you need to get tickets. You will need your passport to get tickets as well as when you go in. It has great views of the city, plus walking up the glass dome was quite nice. After that we walked along Tiergarten to see the Siegessaule (Victory Column). Along the way we saw the Soviet Memorial, which symbolizes as a reminder of the Soviet victory at the Battle of Berlin in WWII. The Tiergarten dates to 1527 and has been a public park since 1742. At 207 hectares (630-acres), it is the largest green space in central Berlin and was a hunting ground for the Great Elector in the 17^th century.

Today and yesterday, we saw a lot of protesters, who want the European countries to close any Iranian embassies in their countries. There were pictures of the people who have been killed since protests erupted following the death of Mahsa Amini while in the custody of the morality police. The protest in Berlin was the largest in the world. There were also protests in Sweden, Italy, France, Switzerland, London, Toronto, Washington, and Los Angeles.

Weather has been nice everywhere, and Berlin is no different. There are parts of the day where I didn’t even need to have my coat on. It’s been in the sixties, and it looks like it will hold!

Berlin Day Three

Today we started at Museum Island (Museumsinsel) It has some great architect. It was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999. The buildings were built from 1830 to 1930 an includes the Altes Museum, the Neues Museum, the Alte Nationalgalerie, the Bode-Museum, and the Pergamonmuseum. As mentioned the first night, there is a nice park/square there. Today the museums were closed. It’s been so nice outside (in the sixties), and we haven’t really been gravitating toward inside activities. Next time I come, I will try to check some of them out.

We decided to back track where we left off together on Unter den Linden. One for Clara to see, and two for me to get better pictures. I was trying to get as far down as I could get, as well as get home before dark. I knew where I was, but the first nights are all about making sure I know how to navigate the city. We are also getting better at using the train system, and we are not shy to go to the ticket office when we need help!

We saw the Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom), aka the Evangelical Supreme Parish and Collegiate Church, which was built from 1894 to 1905 by order of William II in Renaissance and Revival styles. It is the largest Protestant church and has tombs for the House of Hohenzollern. It is used for church services as well as state ceremonies, concerts, and other events. It was damaged during the war. The cathedral’s original interior was restored by 2002. Currently there is discussion about restoring the historical exterior as well.

We saw the Crown Prince Palace, which was built in 1663, damaged in WWII, and demolished in 1961. It was reconstructed in 1968–1970 as the Palais Unter den Linden. On August 31, 1990, the unification treaty between the Federal Republic of Germany and the German Democratic Republic was signed here. It is currently being used for events.

Saw the New Guard (Neue Wache), which was built from 1816 to 1818. It was intended as a memorial for the wars of liberation and transformed and rebuilt into a memorial for the victims of the First and Second World Wars and the Nazi and SED dictatorships. Since 1993, it has been home to the Federal Republic of Germany’\’s Central Memorial to the Victims of War and Tyranny.

Saw the Berlin State Opera (Staatsoper Berlin), which was built by order of Frederick the Great from 1741 to 1743 It was damaged during World War II and rebuilt from 1951 to 1955. Also saw another building for Humboldt University.

Saw the Zeughaus (arsenal), which is the oldest structure on Unter den Linden. It was built by Frederick III between 1695 and 1730 in the Baroque style and used as an artillery arsenal for the display of cannons. Someone tried to assassinate Hitler there. It was damaged in the war and was opened as the Museum of German History. Today it is the German Historical Museum.

We saw Friedrichswerder Church, which is currently being used as a museum. It has this cool statue of who I assume is St. Michael slaying a serpent (the devil).

Saw Humboldt Forum, which was built in memory of Alexander and Wilhelm von Humboldt to house museum collections from all over the world. It is on the site of the former Berlin City Palace.

We got distracted and ran into St. Nicholas Church, which is the oldest church in Berlin, and the heart of the Nikolai Quarter. There is a cool courtyard around there that has the GeorgBraeu restaurant. I didn’t eat there, but I was digging the statue of St. George slaying the dragon. Also, the Allegory of Science statue.

Journeyed back to Marien Quarter, which has a church. There’s also a statue of Martin Luther and the Berlin Television Tower. The TV tower is one of the tallest structures (my literature says it’s the tallest, but I am not sure if that is still true).

We had lunch near Heckesher Markt, which I thought had a good vibe. A little gritty and urban wrapped up in hipster (for a lack of a better word). We went to the Prenzlauer Berg neighborhood. The old “working-class” district used to be one of the poorest areas of the city, but it is now mostly gentrified.

Saw the New Synagogue (Neue Synagogue). It is a mid-19th century (completed in 1866) synagogue built as the main place of worship for Berlin’s Jewish community. It replaced the Old Synagogue because the community outgrew it. It has an eastern Moorish style. It was damaged prior to and during World War II and much was demolished and rebuilt.

Also saw Alexanderplatz. Berlin Town Hall, which was built between 1861-1869. Freidrichstandpalast, which is on Friedrichstrasse, which opened in 1882 and served as an intersection between the east and west from 1961 to 1990.

We spent four nights in Berlin, and one of those nights was rolling in late from the airport. So still much to do next time I travel here. We flew Aer Lingus because the price was right. Next time, I may either fly directly to Germany via Lufthansa or Condor to hopefully arrive earlier. Or plan the trip around a trip to something more central Germany. I didn’t realize how far apart Berlin was from a lot of places. It’s a place that has been on my list for some time, and I am so glad I finally came.

A lot of buildings were destroyed and rebuilt during the war. The city reminds me of the resiliency of the human spirit. Whether man-caused or nature-caused, we rebuild.

Accommodations

Berlin

Hotel Amo by Amano

Absolutely loves this hotel. We did not eat there, so I cannot speak for the food. I prefer to stay at hotels that are in the city center, so I can be near a lot of things I want to see and be able to move out either direction as needed.

We did a lot of walking. We used the train to get to Potsdam, but we were able to walk to other neighborhoods quite comfortable. We were within a five-minute walk from the Friedrichstrasse S Bahn and the U Banh Oranienburger stop was right outside the door. Once we figured out how to use the system, we were very glad for the location. Besides location my three things are dependable wi-fi, comfortable bed, and good shower pressure (clean and safe are unsaid musts). The hotel had it all. Loved the shower and the wi-fi was fast.

We were in very comfortable walking distance to the museums, gate, government building, other neighborhoods, etc.

2019 Christmas Letter

Dearest Family and Friends,

Here is my yearly “Christmas” letter. As I have mentioned in the past, it is a “highlights reel” of the year, which of course doesn’t mean everything was perfect. It is a reminder to me (that at the end of the day) there is more “good” than “bad.” This year, as I fell asleep at night, I tried to remember to list out the things I was grateful for. This is a habit I will continue because it has been a positive habit. In the overall scheme of life, I have no complaints. Well I do, but…

For my yearly “big” trip, I went to Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. I have been asked several times how I ended up in these countries, and the answer is, “I don’t know.” I literally booked the trip a week before I left. I spent three nights in Tallinn, Estonia; three nights in Riga, Latvia; and three nights in Vilnius, Lithuania. It was my first time to all three countries. If you want to read about my trip, here is the first entry.

Trip Highlights:

• Learning the history of the three countries, which have all be invaded and occupied over the ages but are now independent.
• I logged in many steps each day. Just walking around each city was a treat.
• The image of Alexander Nevsky Orthodox Cathedral (Tallinn) will always remind me of this trip.
• The Kalamaja area in Tallinn, which has a strong heartbeat. Old abandoned factories have been converted into shopping areas.
• The sightseeing bus I took while transiting from Tallinn to Riga. I particularly liked Viljandi and Cesis, which were both very charming towns. I also enjoyed our walk through the national park.
• The Central Market in Riga was amazing! The market is housed in WWI Zeppelin hangers and has outdoor stalls as well. It’s one of the largest markets in Europe.
• I enjoyed the Miera Iela neighborhood of Riga. It’s a district that is popular with young, “hipster” crowds.
• Walking around Riga was a treat because of all the Art Nouveau buildings.
• Remembering the Orthodox father who gave me candy and a smile always makes me smile.
• In Vilnius, I enjoyed all the high places to get great city views like Gediminas Hill, the Three Crosses and Subacius Observation Area.
• The “Republic of Uzupis” was awesome!
• One of my new favorite churches, Shrine of Divine Mercy, with its perfect spirit and altar that says “Jesu, in te confide,” which translates, “Jesus, I trust you.”
• I am thankful for the people I met a long way. Leonard who I met while walking around Tallinn. Daumants the guide from my sightseeing bus from Tallinn to Riga. Tom a fellow American I met after visiting the new library in Riga. Chin Lin from Malaysia who I kept running into in Riga after taking the Tallinn to Riga tour bus together. The young woman from Toronto who I sat by on my Vilnius to Frankfurt flight.
• I loved all of the churches, especially the Russian Orthodox churches.
• Each of the cities have areas going through rebirth. The flip side is that it’s part of the gentrification of areas that is happening all over the world. People who have historically lived there are being pushed out.
• I remain grateful for the gift of travel. It is a reminder that regardless of race, politics, religion, etc., most people pretty much want the same thing. I am also grateful of history that can teach us lessons if we listen.

 

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My only other trip this year was going to Mississippi over Labor Day weekend to visit family. We had a barbecue in honor of my mom.

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The fitness journey I began in January 2014 continues somewhat, though I did no races this year. I am over hills. LOL! I need to do a better job of hitting the gym and eating right in 2020.

It’s hard to believe my church newsletter is entering its 19^th year! In spring 2020, we will publish the 75th issue.

I did not post that much this year. I need to do better in 2020!

A highlight for me in 2019 was when my job had an art exhibit, and I submitted pieces. It was so awesome to see my art displayed!

 

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This year, my dear friend Anh passed away. Anh was one of the first people I met at the port in 1996, 23 years ago, and she was my supervisor for my first two weeks there. We became friends. Then we discovered that we had the same birthday, and it was a wrap. We also shared the same birthday with a woman named Clara, and we did what we called a “fish dinner” every month for years. During that time, they both gave me advice about life, work and finances. Toward the end, are meetings became more like quarterly. Then, at the very end, not at all because Anh was in a nursing home. Once she finally let us see her at the nursing home, we let her know we were there until the end and tried to visit weekly. She passed away during my trip. My memories of her are filled with joy and love. She will be missed.

I hope you have a very Merry Christmas, and I wish you a Happy New Year!

love. hug. xoxo.

ltb

P.S. Goodbye to 2019 and this decade.

There and back again…an LTB journey

“It’s a dangerous business, Frodo, going out your door. You step onto the road, and if you don’t keep your feet, there’s no knowing where you might be swept off to,” J.R.R. Tolkien, The Lord of the Rings.

This morning, I got up at 3:45 a.m. to leave for the airport at 4:45. My flight from Vilnius to Frankfurt left at 6:45 (Flights always sound good when you are booking them but then comes the execution). The flight leaving was delayed 30 minutes because of fog in Frankfurt. I kept thinking, “Just let me make my connection.” But the flights were in the same terminal and the line for Customs was short. Then my flight from Frankfurt to Seattle left was supposed to leave at 10:35. We were delayed because they had to remove the bags of people who did miss the cutoff. I am not sure who they are but that has to suck! I arrived back home at 1:10. Cleared Customs and made my way home!

Thanks so much for following my adventure. I’m not sure what’s next on the travel plans, but I will cook something up! I already have tons of ideas. I do enjoy writing, and I will have my blog posts and travel pictures when I am old and grey remembering the adventures I had in my decadent youth.

Travel is such a beautiful gift. I am global; we are global. I think if more people traveled with an open-heart outside of their comfort zone, we would realize how a like we all are. Regardless of differences of race, religion, nationality and whatever other labels we place on ourselves and other people, we basically want the same thing. We experience the same struggles and heartaches. We experience loss. We experience joy and happiness.

The woman next to me on the flight between Vilnius and Frankfurt lives in Toronto, but she is from Lithuania. She has been in Toronto for 20 years (she left when she was 23). She married a man from the Philippines, and she said back then, it would have been hard on them had they stayed. She traveled home because her father has cancer, and they are getting his will and other end-of-life documents in order. She shared that she lost her mom last year, and I was like I lost mine last year too. Then we exchanged a look because despite not knowing each other, we both understand how that feels. And as humans, we have a lot of shared experiences.

No matter where I have been in the world, children have fallen out and had tantrums. People are out with their friends and family socializing. People are working to provide for their families. Children are unfiltered like the child on the plane who announced quite loudly that he, “Needed to make a poopy.”

I really hate the nationalist/isolationist rhetoric that is being sown worldwide. We are in this together. We can prosper together, or we can struggle together. It’s like the “trade war.” No side wins. Both suffer losses and casualties, and it’s all so unnecessary. This is where I would normally go off on my tangent about why international trade is good!

Now my mission is to do laundry from the trip. Go grocery shopping. Catch up on Greenleaf and Young Sheldon. BTW for those who have watched Greenleaf and Downton Abbey, is it me or are Charity and Lady Edith basically the same character? I need to vote and a much of “to dos” that should go relatively short if I focus. I also need to figure out why my pictures are not posting to my shared site. The photos are uploaded and ready to rock and roll.

Now back to regular programing.

Edits later.

Vilnius – act three

I spent the better part of today in the New Town.

I started off by walking down the length of Gedimino Prospektas. I cut over as things caught my eye like St. Phillip and St. Jacob. If I read correctly, the church has the oldest icon of Mary in Lithuania.

The Museum of Genocide Victims was closed. I would have had to gone Saturday. Saw the Parliament House. The Lithuanian National Drama Theater is undergoing renovations, so I was unable to see the Three Muses.

A little south of Gedimino is Vingis Park, which I walked through a little. I also went to the Romanov Church, which was known as the Orthodox Church of St. Michael and St. Constantine. It was built to mark 300 years of the Romanov dynasty. This was within four years of the dynasty ending. I also saw the Flower Market, which I could have missed but the guidebook mentioned it and it was close to the church. They did have tons of lovely roses. I also saw Kenessa, which is a traditional Karaite prayer house that was built in 1911.

I then went to the Snipiskes district, which is where Soviet concrete building blocks have been replaced with skyscrapers. The business district is called “Sunrise Valley.” I also saw St. Raphael’s Church.

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Then I did some wandering around the Old Town again.

I did a lot of walking. 33,381 steps according to my phone.

Edits when I get home!

Vilnius – act two

Today, I started off in the Cathedral Square again. I wanted to make sure I got a picture of the statue of Gediminas. It is built on an old pagan site. I also wanted to get a picture of the tile that has the word stebuklas, which means miracle. It marks the spot where the human chain formed between Tallinn and Vilnius ended. More than two million people formed the chain to protest the Soviet occupation. You are supposed to do a clockwise 360-degree turn on the tile.

I forgot to mention that last night I saw the Palace of the Grand Dukes. I passed it again on my way into the Old Town. The site has been settled on since at least 4^th century AD.

Vilnius’ Old Town is Eastern Europe’s largest.

My first stop was St. Anne’s Church. This is the church I randomly went in to last night, but I left because they were having mass. Well it’s Sunday, so they were having mass again. I stayed for part of it. While I was there, the father came by with oil. He dipped a brush or something and went around waving it toward all of us as a blessing, I think? The church is late 15^th-century Gothic and has 33 different kinds of bricks. Legion has it that Napoleon wanted to relocate the church to Paris because he was charmed by it. The church still has its original altar.

The next stop was Bernadine Church and Monastery. I was able to take communion there based on the timing of my arrival. The Bernadine monks have been in Vilnius since the 15^th century when they established a wooden house of worship. Now its brick.

As I was walking, I heard someone say, “Hi.” I looked up, and it was the woman from Malaysia again! Like me, she arrived in Vilnius yesterday. She is going to Krakow, Poland, tomorrow. Her name is Chin Lin. It totally made my day.

One thing I noticed in all three countries is the number of people asking for alms outside of the church. A few times, I have seen them chased away by people from the church.

Then to the Church of Saint Michael the Archangel. It was built in the 17^th century. Saw the Presidential Palace and parts of Vilnius University, which was founded in 1579.

Went to St. John’s Church, which is the first parish church in the city. Christianity was introduced to the city in 1387 and the church opened in 1426. Saw the nearby House of Signatories. Lithuania’s Declaration of Independence was signed there in 1918.

Then to what may now be my favorite church in the world. I love the Church of Our Lady in Bruges a lot too. This church is called Shrine of Divine Mercy. It doesn’t have much decoration, but what is there is so perfect. I found it to be peaceful. Above the altar it says, “Jesu, in te confido.” Which translates, “Jesus, I trust you.” Then there is artwork that says it in different languages. I arrived just as it was the “May God be with you,” part, which is my favorite part of the service.

Then to the Church of our Lady of the Assumption. Then to the Church of St. Nicholas, which is the city’s oldest church. It was built by German Christians in 1320. From 1901 to 1939, it was the only church in Lithuania that held mass.

Went in the Russian Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas. It was smoky. It was built in the 16^th century then restored 300 years later. Went to Evangelical Lutheran Church. It dates back to 1555. Went to where the Great Synagogue of Vilnius was before it was destroyed. It was the largest synagogue in Eastern Europe.

Then to the Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary the Comforter and St. Casimir’s Church, which was closed. Passed by the Lithuanian National Philharmonic on my way to see Church of Holy Trinity, Orthodox Church of the Holy Spirit, Church of Saint Teresa of Avila, Gates of Dawn and the Chapel of the Gates of Dawn. The Gates of Dawn is the southern border of the Old Town.

After that I saw two more churches, the Church of the Lord’s Ascension to Heaven and the Church of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. Both which are closed.

At some point, I also saw the Town Hall and the square. I also saw St. Catherine’s Church, which is now a musical venue. Went to the Church of Holy Spirit, which has green interior.

At some point, I realized I was walking up hill, and stopped by the Subacius Observation Area before walking down. I endued up in Uzupio, so I wandered around there again. I did some random walking through the Old Town on my way home.

 

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Basically, I spent a lot of times visiting tons of churches today, many of which were having service. There are a lot of churches in the Old Town. Even I was getting “churched out” toward the end!

I spent some time in the Bernardine Gardens yesterday. Quite lovely! I also saw the Cathedral of Theotkos, but I didn’t know what it was called until today. I saw it when I was leaving the Uzupio district.

Edits when I get home!

Vilnius – act one

“One stage of your journey is over, another begins,” Gandalf the Grey.

Today, I departed Riga, Latvia, and took a bus to Vilnius, Lithuania.

I have to say that I loved the hotel I stayed at in Riga. It’s called Hotel Justus. Check out their webpage. The décor in my room and around the hotel are pieces I would love to have in my home.  It’s in a great location. It is minutes from the Riga Cathedral on the left and House of Blackheads on the right. Great filling breakfast. I was able to walk to the sites I wanted to get to. And the staff, one woman in particular, were very friendly and helpful. I meant to get her name, but when I got back my last night, she was gone.

I took a 9:30 bus and arrived at the Vilnius bus depot at 1:30ish.

Got to my hotel, checked in, dumped my stuff and headed out. Since I’ve been back at the hotel, I have organized my stuff.

My first stop was the Cathedral Square. It was the place of markets and fairs in the 19^th century. I visited the Vilnius Cathedral. The spot of the church was, once upon a time, a site that was used to worship the thunder god. I saw the Cathedral Belfry and debated whether to walk up the tower. I decided not to.

Part of the reason is because I was going to go up Gediminas Hill, and I thought that would give a better view. I debated whether to take the funicular or walk. I decided to walk because it wasn’t that far up. This hill is where Vilnius was founded. The castle is up there. There have been buildings there since Neolithic times. The current castle dates back to the 15^th century. Its walls were damaged but restored. It offered lovely views of the city and Old Town.

I was going to head to Old Town, but I saw a sign pointing to St. Peter and St. Paul Church. Let me say, “Amazing.” It has a baroque interior with 2,000 stuccoes created by Italian sculptors between 1675 and 1704. I am so amazed at all the detail. It’s a bit of walk, but definitely worth it. Since I was there, I continued on to Antakainis Cemetery. It’s supposed to be one of Europe’s most beautiful graveyards (not sure how that’s measured). There is a place where those killed by Soviet special forces January 19, 1991, are buried. There is a pieta of Madonna cradling Jesus there. I did enjoy my walk through it.

On a side note, when I lived in Northgate, I lived across from a cemetery. I used to walk in it all the time.

I then walked up to Three Crosses. They were first erected in the 17^th century in memory of monks who were martyred by pagans three centuries earlier. The originals were bulldozed by the Soviets. Sigh.

I had seen a sign pointing to Uzupis, so I kept going. What a fun neighborhood. It’s called the “Republic of Uzupis.” Complete with own flags and president. There is a 41-point constitution engraved in many different languages outlining its citizens’ rights. Like hot water, to be unique, to be free, to be happy, etc. There is also the Uzupis Angel. It’s kind of old school Capitol Hill before gentrification meets Fremont.

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At that point, it was starting to get dark, and I wanted to make sure I could find my way back to the hotel. I will hit up Old Town in its fullest tomorrow.

Oh. Remember that Soviet style building I mentioned that reminded me of one I saw in Poland? Will apparently there is one more of them (I forget where). In Riga, the locals call it “Stalin’s wedding cake.”

I learned from Tom, that you can go to St. Petersburg from Helsinki for up to 72 hours without a visa. I need to do some research into that because that could be a future trip.

Tomorrow, Europe falls back. An extra hour of sleep. Hallelujah!

Edits when I get home.